unclethirsy, 1563437743

Thanks guys, I'll keep this short, going out now. Yes, Grant makes great boards I've had about 10 over the years, from F-skate,powerglides, etc, all customs & fukin great boards. But he's working on his property ATM & then going state side & his shaping list will be long when he gets back. Currently got Pieters boards, 9'1 & 8'6' sbb's, again great boards. My prob, apart from age & medical is surfing Sydney Northside closeouts, I'm slow their fast!....LOL.... Brutus, Laurie & H2O, thanks for the comments & I'll get back on here tomz. UT (out).

unclethirsy, 1563493743

Laurie, are you admin on here? Can I PM guys on here somehow? Also do you think that a specific page for surfers with medical issues could be of benefit? Those of us who have been thru "the wars" with some issues could offer support.Eg:- I
'm a memeber of "surfing after hip replacement" site & folks on there find the support really good. Just an idea.

Laurie McGinness, 1563502449

No Thirsty, I am just a contributor. Stu is the editor and Ben is the owner. They have talked about PMs but it needs a bit of work to set it up ......... and they are pretty much flat out on the surf reports. If you want your email sent to someone Stu will usually do that if you post a request here.

udo, 1563509907

Old site used to have PMs

stunet, 1563510410

And no-one used them!

These days I'm like an old-style telegraph operator relaying trunk calls.

Uncle, if you wanna send an email to Laurie, then shoot one to me: stuart@swellnet.com

zenagain, 1563542735

I used to a lot.

Until the restraining order...

simba, 1566161339

Have a look at the work in this ......got it all going on but a work of art none the less.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2768980166464375&set=pcb.2402438453367603&type=3&theater

P'tai, 1566165265

My goodness that is a work of art!!! Imagine the amount of work that went into that, glassing and polishing alone, would have been a nightmare. Hats of to the artisans involved in that project.

stunet, 1566169713

Levi Jones is a wizard when it comes to restoring boards, but he's also pretty adept at making his own pieces of functional art - though that last one swings more towards 'art' than 'function'.

memlasurf, 1566185584

That one is 70's in the extreme. I think I can hear Dark Side of the Moon playing in the background.

unclethirsy, 1583381043

Hi guys, well here we are even further down the track, Now down to 3mg Prednisone per day, feeling much better,loosing weight & working on fitness, Been a long journey, sold all my boards due to depresion as a result of what prednisone does to your head but recently came out of the fog & got a newie, Pieter 8'10"x23'x3' roundtal. Havnt ridden it yet but bustin a gut to get on it
.https://www.instagram.com/p/B5qhw_NHmi7/

Blowin, 1583385296

So stoked for ya , Unclethirsty

Board looks unreal. Glad to hear that surfing is helping to bring you into the light. Hope you get some nice ones.

Good luck mate.

That first rush of salt water over your back is going to feel magic.

GuySmiley, 1583385407

good work uncle

unclethirsy, 1596849299

Brutus, great news & video re your situation. Keep surfing & shaping. Best of long term luck & karma to you & yours.

Island Bay, 1596850663

Welcome back, Uncle. All the best.

tlearyus, 1604445258

I have been surfing for 30 years and will be 57 in February. Over the last 10 years I have been really struggling to catch many waves, so I started what has turned out to be a very expensive, and frustrating period of my surfing life. I have bought and sold 12 different boards in that time, and got sucked into what I call 'Mid Length Hell', and fell for all the lies and marketing hype.

However I am now riding a Modern Falcon 8'0 which is by far the best board I have owned so far, and i have had some great waves on it, but overall I am still struggling to catch many waves per session, and can't seem to paddle hard enough to get onto waves early, despite surfing 3-4 times per week and being surf fit.

I am 183cm and 97kg so losing some weight might help, but I just don't seem to have the paddle strength or power that most other surfers have, which I have never been able to work out to be honest.

I bought a Modern Golden Rule 9'1 stock standard Mal but it's too heavy and I still can't seem to paddle into waves that much better with it, and it's not suitable for faster/steeper waves.

I then got Brett Munro to design a 7'10 custom board but despite giving him a very clear set of guidelines and specific information about the need to help my paddle power the board he built was far too thin, and high performance and nowhere near enough volume so it's sitting in my room, after 3 bad surfs and not catching a single wave on it.

I can't tell you how frustrating this has been and my surfing and confidence has been shattered, but I will keep trying to find the elusive board for me.

Just for the record these are the boards I have tried over the last 10 years.

Liquid Lines Mini Mal 7'6 (Should never have sold it)
Firewire 7'6 (Way Too Thick and hard to Paddle)
Ecobean 6'6 (Way too Loose and wrong board for me)
Hypto Crypto 7'0 (Only for Advanced/HP surfers)
McCoy Nugget 7'2 (Got a few good waves but still low wave count)
Sideways Fun Board 7'2 (Absolute Crap)
Modern Love Child 7'6 (Got a few good waves but still low wave count)
Walden Mega Magic 2 SLX 7'2 (Way too Fat and Slow)
Anti-Mal 7'6 ( Shocking Experience, Never again)
Modern Falcon 8'0 (Best so far but still low wave count per session)
Brett Munro 7'10 (No waves after first 3 surfs)
Modern Golden Rule 9'1 (Only for slow, fat days)

freeride76, 1604446668

wanna sell that 7'10" Munro?

Not sure what is happening with the paddling mate, could you give us some more info?

stunet, 1604447820

Though I don't have the answer, it sounds like something with a simple remedy. If it's paddle strength you need, then forget about boards for a moment and work on your body. Get some one-on-one coaching and hit them up for exercises you can do to increase your strength and also exercises to maintain it. Even the best length of fibreglass won't atone for lax fitness.

Once you're catching more waves per session then start dialling in your equipment.

udo, 1604448680

What was the problem with the Anti-Mal ?

tlearyus, 1604463819

Thanks for the replies and will take your advice Stu and try to build my shoulder/arm strength and I def need to lose a few kg's as well which i am working on.

Yes am going to sell the 7'10 Munro and will put it up on Gumtree soon but you can also email me at tlearyus@gmail.com if you are keen,

But the boards i have chosen in the past haven't really helped me either, and I found the Super Mal was a dog to paddle, and not very good quality either,

Island Bay, 1604464928

Look at paddling technique too.

All the best. It's a shitty situation, but there are ways out of it.

tlearyus, 1604470903

Thanks mate, it's been a tough 10 years for me in lots of ways, but I love surfing and I am a determined old bastard. Every now and then I get a real gem and it keeps me going, but it's so hard to watch everyone from little kids to surfers in the 70's get more waves than I do, day after day, year after year. Most people would have given up by now faced with the same results.

D-Rex, 1604479684

Sacrilege I know but...try fitting a Boost (powered) fin. If that doesn't work....

Coaster, 1604485026

There’s a good suggestion about weight from milesp at the bottom of page 1 of this thread. It makes a huge difference. You should also consider a board shaped by Grant Miller when you’re thinking about your next board.

Island Bay, 1604518654

Re paddling technique, I found this guy's videos very good:
https://www.surfingpaddling.com/free-surfing-paddling-technique-training

Here's the youtube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/c/RobCaseXSWIM/videos

There's a lot of stuff there, but sift through it and find some gold. I reckon having started quite late in life, you may benefit from this.

tldr: keep your elbow higher when paddling, so as to not apply downwards pressure with your hand during the stroke (as that'll keep you from getting down the face and catching the wave).

tlearyus, 1604548586

Thanks so much Frogg for such detailed and excellent advice. There are some really great tips here for me, and anyone else who is having the same problems to try out and explore.

So many of these issues you highlighted resonate with me, but now I am excited to give these tips a try tmrw with a big 4m swell coming overnight. And thanks heaps Island Bay for the video links, will watch these tonight.

PS: Great to see the spirit of the surfing community still alive and well.

frog, 1604549569

4m swell. Crikey. Bigger waves are easier. Got to paddle down that face on the peak. Shoulder hopping seems less scary but is way harder.

frog, 1608172651

telearyus

Phew. Sounds a struggle. Not too many 97kg surfers find it easy to paddle hard and pop up fast. Often the bigger guys are pushing quite a bit of water even on a mini mal and then the whole pop up process is slow making it hard to catch waves and get up and going.

A pretty floaty board is a must. Lose 10 kg weight and / or substantially work on arms strength would help.

BUT some of it might be attitude as well as wave catching and pop up technique that can be fixed more quickly. I often see older and bigger guys repeatedly do things like:
1. Try to stand up too soon before properly into the wave for reasons such as:
- subconsciously thinking being up and riding early is safe and they are then ready for the drop
- don't like popping up during the drop phase when things are happening fast when in fact it is easier then.
2. Lie a few inches too far back on the board due to worries about nose diving and so push a heap of water
3. In crowds just get snaked and / or they worry too much about wasting waves by blowing the take off and so pull back or don't REALLY go hard for a wave.
4. Paddle without digging deeper into the water - sometimes due to the beer belly but it can be habit.
5. Try to stand up too vertically immediately in the pop up increasing the effort and time to make the move.
etc. Bad habits are very common.

The other day I was out on a small right and did a few clunky take offs myself and put it down to being a bit rusty and maybe getting older. Then half way through the surf I noticed some tube potential of the first section of the wave I was surfing and tried to get in one and suddenly my pop up just fixed itself. The difference was that I started paddling harder to get in quick and on an angle to line up the barrel and stay low ready to be in the pocket straight away. I started thinking quicker, going harder and moving faster at every point from paddle to pop up. For the rest of the surf I was just slipping into the pocket nice and easy and felt 10 years younger.

I left the surf pondering what had just happened. It was simple. I was following advice I know well and have given before here or on some forum that I had forgotten to practice myself.

So try:
- finding some space way from the crowd on a good buoyant board that you can get some speed on when paddling.
- lie forward so your board's nose is just above the surface as you paddle.
- paddle like a demon for every wave you go for, even if the board catches them fairly easily, to get in early and make sure you really have the wave before you try to stand.
- paddle down the face a bit - a couple of extra strokes - before you stand up.
- think fast, look along the wave to where you want to go - so you angle a bit more than usual.
- exploit the fall of the board down the face of the wave to lessen the distance you have to raise your body (it is hard to do a good pop up on land or on a big fat shoulder than a steep wave).
- aim to stand up in a crouch first as though you are going for a small tube to lessen the whole pop up effort.

In practice, hopefully, by just a shift in thinking - "go hard, get that wave, move quick" muscle memory will do much of the rest. If not you might have to analyse a bit more what you may be stuffing up.

Some consistent work on the arms is a must so you can at least do a 10 second speed burst, and pull yourself down the wave and push up quickly. Push ups off a bench are good - do 100 reps 3 times a day at a minimum.

Try that next time...

simba, 1609125923

Frog,so im curious to what board your talking about?

frog, 1609126374

Been riding a mini mal a fair bit and enjoyed the wave catching ability and trim speed. Great for small fast point breaks and beachies. The old shortboard never seemed to get much use as in comparison the trim speed seemed so slow unless the wave really let you weave. In some video I could see it pushing water in a flat trim (too much rocker). Growing old gracefully seemed logical and the direction I was headed.

But something was missing. After a good run of surf I was getting a bit bored. I missed zippy turns and that sense of possibilities for carving when an open face arose. I also decided I don't like the feeling of a long board cutback or off the top - seem clunky and so much board to haul around. So with some trepidation and muted excitement I bought a short (6'2"), very wide (22"), 40 + litres rounded shape, low rocker high volume board unlike anything I have surfed before. I was not totally confident as I had seen these boards surfed very well here and there (most good footage though seemed to be from 75kg rippers). A lot of what I had seen done out in the surf from older guys was pretty ordinarily, however, lacking in trim speed and liveliness. Logic told me that it didn't have to be so with the volume, concaves, low rocker etc. So I was punting on my abilities a bit despite being late 50's and 85kg.

To my relief it goes great. Catches waves okay - have to work at it again (or lose 5kg maybe)? Not as well as I expected. The wide nose seems to make angled into the pocket takeoffs harder but still working that out. Maybe so, may be able to work around it with time.
But it:
- trims fast from the middle and even quite near the nose a bit like a long board once on a speedy section.
- changes to a much looser board once you step back and can weave up and down and squirt from section to section with a super lively feel.
- turns and responds really easily.
- gives a sense of excitement as you paddle into a good a wave (and even now thinking about my next surf) wondering what unexpected turns and moves might be possible.
- has reward for effort - as I started to surf faster and work the board more it gave back in speed and a sense of fun. So my whole surfing act livened up.
- it has the two boards in one feel - trim up front and then trim or turn from the back.
- it will probably be a bit wild and skatey in bigger stuff but I see this as a plus - being a little wild and out of control.

I know it has its limitations. The turns seem flatter and not sure how it will go in sucky barrels. It won't plane over really crappy fat sections like a mini mal. Not for 1 ft slop or fat gutless really small waves but what is? But for 2- 4 ft point and beach waves it should be a lot of fun. I am even thinking of trying to lose a few kg and get fitter and try to surf "youngish" for another 5 years or so.

So back to the thread title. The mini mal or long board is a good option and for some it is only option. But if you are fortunate to be reasonably agile and injury free there are quite a lot of shorter options.

By the way, you also need to have (or think how to regain) the wave and board sense to find the right trim and turn spots on the board and to pick the right lines on the wave. I have seen these boards (and all boards for that matter) surf like little short tug boats by people who just stand there slightly out of trim, who try to turn them from too far forward or don't find the speed pocket of a wave. These skills are subtle and you can't be lazy.. Fortunately once I sped up my brain a bit and shifted gears I still had it.

Instead of thinking about my next surf as "a surf" I am a bit excited.

freeride76, 1609128064

Good for you Frogg

simba, 1609130995

Hey Frog check out the chilli mid strength......fun board,more volume....

https://www.chillisurfboards.com/surfboards/detail.php?id=7234&direct=1®ion=aus

frog, 1609137841

Well simba, it ain't a highly regarded shaper design or brand. Nor is it made for rippers. It is a mass produced Highline by Modern. It is promoted for beginners and intermediate surfers.

I looked at more performance type ones but wanted something way different to my older "fish" type thruster - I wanted very high volume for the board size. Many of the others were still around 33 to 36 litres which is what I was riding.

I had my doubts, however, after some research I judged they had put (borrowed) the various components of the many cool short wide boards that are around into the design and that these are now all fairly well understood. .So logic said it would work. And, I was backing my ability to make it work. I have always found once you get to know a board you can find its sweet spots.

There is one short video on the net of the board being ridden - which was not enough for me to judge well. They really should show more. So I spent time watching everything I could find being surfed that was a bit similar. That helped but it remained a bit of a punt buying it.

Going back to short means means that my range of spots to surf has expanded again which is good and I would now be able to transition to my 6' 6' if something serious was to be surfed much more easily (I was really bad at going from long to short).

frog, 1609138059

Thx. I looked at those. Mine is 46 litres at 6'2" so for better or worse I chose a very high volume whilst still short. My fitness varies quite a bit. The chilli at the volume I wanted would have been 6' 10" I think - too long for my plan.

Westofthelake, 1609139465

Some great advice there frog.

Been pushing the weight/age curve myself this year, but in the wrong direction. Bought some scales recently and I'm up to 91, ideally at 5'10 I should be closer to 85. Going to give it a crack in 2021.

"Push ups off a bench are good - do 100 reps 3 times a day at a minimum."

Really 100 @ 3 x times per day, wow.

And here I was thinking my 30 @ once per day is sufficient.

Santa brought me some resistance bands for xmas, so I think I'm going to have to step it up a bit next year...

frog, 1609213371

Westofthelake,
100 x 3 push-ups off a bench is just a minimum maintenance. Before surf trips I would do 3 x 200 plus surf plus 500 to 1000 + pull downs at the gym plus some swimming or kayaking - that meant lots of waves and easy popups and confidence.

I suspect your arm strength might be a big issue in your pop-up.

Technique is important but for me strong push up strength is the big lever. When I have it I barely have to think about it. If I let it slide I get slow and clumsy.

frog, 1611449968

After a lot of surfs on the 6" 2" high volume (46L) (short - in my eyes) board I can report: I am still enjoying it heaps.
Positives:
- getting quite surf fit now and catching waves easily - not like a mini mal though
- the basic trim speed is quite high even with no pump or weave.
- the board absolutely flies down the line on fast walled wave with a normal speed weave - feels almost frictionless as a lot of air gets under the board and it does not sink into the wave face much- the speed come without much effort.
- it is loose if you step back onto the sweet spot(s) and can carve from the back.
- foot position is important to get the most out of it - trim further forward is fastest (but trims fine further back), shift back to turn and the further back you go the looser it get and the more you can sink the rail.
- done well in some sucky take offs and I have been able to pull quickly into the tube - but not with the ease of a narrow low volume board. This is gets better over time.

At this point I don't see negatives - just compromises that I expected and am happy accept and to work around:
- if your feet are too far forward after the pop up as has happened sometime on late take offs on small waves the buoyancy and width does not let you sink a rail from a forward position to pull into the pocket - in a super quick small wave you don't have time to shift back or nurse it around.
-your average turn is flatter and has less rail action cutting into the wave face.
- foot position matters quite a lot to get the most out of it. The extra volume and width sometime means weird things happen if your feet are not placed right - i.e. it tracks straight or the turn ends up flatter than your expected so your body has leaned to far over.

In my view after surfing one and watching a lot of videos, I think a lot of people go too short in these types of boards and lose the paddle speed and trim speed for no really advantage. To me a 6' 2" fits in small waves well enough.

Overall, I am way happier having gone short rather than staying on a longer board. A whole bunch of sucky waves I avoided are now back on the agenda. If it is 2 foot plus and peeling I am having fun. I can carve again and have a sense of freedom on a open face to go all over the wave again. If it is 4 foot and zipper fast I am flying at speeds my old shortboard could not match..

These board are fine for cruising around on and easy to turn for an older surfer. I am just trying to get more out of them than perhaps they were designed for and so thoughts on foot position matter more to me than the average rider.

freeride76, 1611450978

sweet. enjoy that excellent analysis Frog.

Ash, 1611556863

I reckon it's a big mistake to go long only, when you get past a certain age, short boards actually surf so much more responsively than " longer for paddle ins" type boards. The trick is the volume and not going too wide either. Getting the right mix of length and volume is probably one of the hardest things to nail when you're past 55, I suppose it's just how you perceive your surfing style, mals cruise, short boards are more dynamic.

freeride76, 1611559043

sorry if you already mentioned but what specific design is the board Frog?

Westofthelake, 1611560487

Good stuff Ash. I reckon I could still cruise on a dynamic board.

Thanks for sharing Frogg.
Really enjoy reading the analysis of your transition.
I have never really considered a mini-mal, and now thanks to you and Ash I never need to!

@Frogg RE: the push ups and pop ups. I don't ever have an issue with pop-ups. Doing 30 push-ups per day (plus some other outdoor exercise daily) gives me enough confidence and strength to catch more than enough waves in a session. Besides, I don't surf enough nor catch an abundance of waves every time I surf. Never used gyms, just kept it simple, with more of a focus on cardio-vascular fitness.
And like you say, after the pop-up if your feet aren't in the sweet spot it can be sometimes difficult to adjust depending on the wave. There are multiple reasons for a board not performing up to expectation on any given day, but I am guessing that many times it may be more of a case of 'operator error'. I can certainly vouch for this.

Having confidence in your fitness will prepare you for the challenging days, but ultimately on the day it's going to be up to both you and your equipment. And Huey.

frog, 1611610843

Another great surf today in overhead walls. Board went fast, turned on a dime easily, squirted out of cutbacks. Stood with my backfoot on the tailpad and did not move up and down the board like in smaller waves. Felt i was going noticeably faster on the wave than the other guy out on a normal shortboard.

I can duck dive it even though it is 46 litres.

I no longer view it as a compromise for an older surfer. It is a super fun valid design that happens to paddle well. Felt 22 not 60.

For me, the mini mal option was a wrong detour that was lessening my surf stoke - making me surf and think "old" before my time.

frog, 1611613704

Westoflake

Right now I am pretty surf fit. It makes a big difference to everything in the water - wave count, takeoff speed, confidence to swing around on a tricky takeoff etc. You can sense other surfers seeing your paddle speed and competence and letting you have waves. There are some challenging waves I am hoping to catch on where I would now paddle deep whereas if less surf fit I might avoid or sit on the shoulder.

I can't really maintain that level of fitness all year. But it has proven to me the importance of doing more rather than less out of the water. I like to catch a lot of waves and surf well. It is all cumulative in terms of fun and sense of self.

frog, 1611615457

I went longer intending to mix it up but found going from the long board to the short board really hard. I had become lazy on take offs and standing on a short board felt weird. I felt all out of sorts the whole session. Now back on the short board exclusively it feels totally natural again.

My mini mal would be better in knee high waves maybe. I really enjoyed the speed and length of ride in zipper fast small waves on the mal but once that novelty had worn off I had realised that I painted myself into a corner of looking for smaller lined up surf and avoiding other options.

The turning point was when I had a really good surf back in December which was crying out for a big cutback on the middle section and then a re-entry in the shore break. On the mini mal I just zipped through the middle section in a straight line and pulled off in the shorebreak. Yes, I did try some cutbacks but stopped bothering cause to me they felt clunky and slow. I had no desire to try to work on my big board moves cause the reward was (in my eyes) not there.

This is a personal preference from early surfing experiences imprinted on my brain. I see some very good longer board riders carving but it is just not the "feel" I am looking for..

But I like the feel of:
- being able to explore the curves of a wave at will - up, down, swoop, carve etc.
- fitting easily into the curves of the wave - not adjusting all the time to stop the nose of a longer board catching
- accelerating out of cut backs
- seeing a lip and hitting it with speed and flow
- being able to duck dive - hugely important at some spots.
- swinging around last minute to take off.

Fortunately I am still largely injury free and nimble and can surf not much different from my younger days. But for a while there on the mini mal my self talk was becoming negative and wrong - too old for spot X, won't enjoy spot Y, yes I am slowing down, can't make takeoffs on fast sucky waves etc. Worst of all, I was not as excited at the prospect of quality waves or when a really nice one lined up for me as I am now.

I could probably surf a more traditional performance board quite well when surf fit. But I still wanted something quite different - especially the easy speed when paddling and on a wave.

As mentioned before, I have found that a short wide, flat rocker groveler can actually be a performance board of sorts if you surf it right. Don't go too short though otherwise you are back where you started struggling to catch waves and getting less speed on the wave.

Supafreak, 1611615901

Hadn’t seen this thread before, good reading , I’m turning 60 this year and move between 90 and 95 kg , my grovler is 5’ 10” 35 litres , my boards for 3 ‘ to 6 ‘ are a 6’ 2” 38.5 ltrs and a 6’ 4” 41 ltrs , conditions dictate which one I use , 6 ‘ to 8 ‘ is a 6’ 8 “ 44 litres l don’t really go out in much bigger these days but have a nice 7’ Jim Banks hit the road model . My days of 8’to 12’ are over don’t enjoy the floggings like I did when I was younger. Had some nice size angourie last year in the 6-8 range and had a ball. When I was younger I preferred bigger boards and my range was 7’ to 7’10” , just liked the feeling when coming of the top of having the length in front of me . I’ve come down in length as I’ve got older but volume has increased. Beautiful day this morning , finished work and off to the beach.

Ash, 1611618289

Gotta agree with you Frog, fitness is the key. It's hard work but a daily routine no matter how short will help and allow you to ride the boards of your preference rather than a floatation device.

frog, 1611621877

By the way, my comments are very specific to me and my own reasonably fortunate state of health. If I mentally scroll through the guys I know that are my age group I would say:
70% have little option but to go mini mal due to weight, injury, poor fitness issues to even catch waves. Better to go down that path than just give up. Lots of fun to be had still and surfing can give you many things that are precious and hard to find elsewhere in life.

udo, 1611622965

Blowin did you end up finding yourself a Fishy type board ?

Blowin, 1611626485

Not yet. Starting to move towards the idea of a hybrid fish / short board so I can still ride the weak beachies but with a bit more carve and lip action.

blakey72, 1613456839

Oldish thread but gold! I'm 48 and about to return back to surfing after 20 years (wish me luck). As a grom I did most of my surfing along the Goldy down to the Nth Coast. I'm 5"10' annd 92kg. Moved to Vic 12 years ago and looking at surfing some small stuff along the Ocean Grove Coast.

Tossing up on which board to begin with. I'm thinking around 6"4' 37L? Not sure quad or thruster? Probably have to stick to small mushy beach stuff for a while till I get my fitness back up. Any ideas/thoughts for an old bum?

Blakey.

indo-dreaming, 1613460370

hmmm 48 5,10 @ 92Kg and not surfed for 20 years.

Personally i think you might need a but more volume than 37Litres (what do others think??)

6,4 would be fine but maybe go wider and thicker so you have a board around 40 L or possibly more.

If you havent been surfings for that long, a bit more foam would only be of benefit to paddling and catching waves, especially in Victorian beaches that even when small can have decent rips/sweeps that you sometimes need to paddle against.

For perspective im in my 40s about 5,8(maybe 5,9) and 80Kg and surf boards about 30-33Litres and my 30L boards sit way under the water when im sitting on them, I've been thinking of getting a board around 35L just for that extra paddle factor.

I like quads, but if you getting back into things id stick to a thruster set up to start with. (but if you can get a board with both fin set up options even better) but id still stat back on a thruster.

Rusty Forest, 1613460937

One question.
What do you realistically feel your prowess was 20 years ago. (muscle memory and all that).

seaslug, 1613462946

Blakey72, as Indo says I'd definitely go for more volume and after 20 years not surfing I'd even go for a Softlite type board Popstick, 7'0. Go thruster not quad. Volume will be your friend at this stage

Higgo, 1613463390

I recommend getting a 7’0 or 7’2 mid length, ride it for six months and just enjoy riding waves without the frustration of a really low wave count. Once you have got your fitness and skills back up, then transition back to a short board. Sometimes pride and image gets in the way of having fun.

B.B.Blitz, 1613465873

Agree re fitness is crucial.Came back from 7 months out of the water with ankle injury(usually ride 6 ft 32litre thruster) was told go longer it'll be easier etc.Worst thing I did, not only getting over the injury(physically and mentally, yeah it fucks your confidence)but adjusting to a new board sucked, back on my old faithful and after 12 straight days of surfing(Queensland points) I'm back to peak fitness and not missing a beat.I've often debated going bigger, but never works for me except with a step up 6'4 for 6ft plus days.I find extra width through the chest area works a treat for keeping boards short.

GuySmiley, 1613469684

Ocean Grove + 20 years out = mal

indo-dreaming, 1613470672

Im with B.B.Blitz line of thinking assuming 20 years ago he was a fairly regular competent surfer, i wouldn't want to go too long, if he rode a 6,4 back then it was probably super narrow and thin, like 18, 1/4 x 2 1/4 but a 6,4 these days at say 21 x 2 3/4 would give a volume of about 40L plus

But to me a 7ft board or mal is like a totally different sport

It would be interesting to hear or know how somebody goes after 20 years of surfing, i wonder if the muscle memory is still there?

I recall (sorry forget his profile name dude that use to do Goldie surf report) saying he went a few years without surfing moved up the snow or something, if reading how did you go coming back to surfing?

GuySmiley, 1613472469

pants-shitter so what would you surf at small shelley beach then after 20 years? Shelley isn’t exactly the same as small ocean grove but you get the idea or most likely you don’t.

udo, 1613472997

You been a surfer so go something like this
https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/gymea/surfing/dhd-sweet-spot-2-0-surfboard/1268453529
Secondhand gd value - 45 litres

indo-dreaming, 1613475352

Just for the hell of it heres my Vic Gumtree picks for him all cheap brand boards but all look like decent deals and all good condition and suitable type boards IMHO to get back into it then upgrade to a better board if he continues.

"6’4 Zephr vessel short board (dimensions: L: 6’4, width: 21 5/8, thickness: 2 7/8, volume: 42.8L) leg rope fins"

Comes with board bag too.

Super wide lots of foam up front for paddling and catching waves, heaps of volume.

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/donvale/surfing/6-4-surfboard-package/1268303090

or

6,6 only cheap epoxy, but would suit getting going again, again comes with fins and board bag, leggie etc

Again quite wide, heaps of foam upfront, expect it would be over 40L

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/preston/surfing/torq-fish-surfboard-6-6-like-new-condition/1268383936

Or even this one, again just cheap epoxy, but for $50 comes with fins leggie board bag but only 6,3 @ 36L though (i think it would be risky going that low in volume even with this shape with lots of foam up front)

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/highton/surfing/7s-superfish-surfboard-6-3-quad-or-thruster/1268434411

@ GuySmiley

Ha ha you read my story, yeah was pretty bad.

Yeah i get it totally different waves even at 1 ft

blakey72, 1613558477

Wow thanks for the reply's guys,much appreciated. Yeah just wasn't sure how to approach it, I've gotta do it though,life is just too short. Fitness will come with time I guess and persistence. I'll just make sure I stick to the smaller stuff, no 6 foot walls for this puppy for a while.

I might go a something with more more volume however going much longer (mal) I think changes the game a bit. It would aid in paddling/fitness however it would be working totally different muscles from something a bit shorter when it comes to take up and balance. Thanks for taking the time to look udo and indo, The second option at 6,6 could be the go indo. Something that floats but isn't going to force me into relying on length, I may get fit but lazy on a mal.

It's gunna be a shit fight for the first few sessions just getting out in 4 footers but I'm sure I'll be stoked just to be on a board and feel the freedom again. My kids have all left home now so the bucket list begins. Life speeds up big time as you get older, don't waste it. Cram in every experience you can!

I'll let you know how I go.

Cheers
Blakey.

blakey72, 1613559681

Rusty, prowess 20 years ago......Geez probably strength, speed and balance. I was fairly fit through athletics, martial arts and gym and I guess the MA helped with balance. I rode state boards back in the 90's too when it was 'big'.

But back then I was 70kg and most of that was on my arms and chest. It has since re-located to my guts. So I've gotta persuade it to make the move back and there's only one thing that will do that. I think I might start swimming as well to help with cardio,your screwed if that's shit.

It might be kind of a crazy idea after 20 years but I can only see it as a positive. Getting back my fitness, getting back into the salt water and fresh air and getting back into something that I love. I'll tell you this, I might be 48 but I don't feel it (only the body perhaps). I don't feel any different to when I was 21 in my mind. I guess I know a few more things now however 98% of what I loved then, I still love now.

Blakey.

freeride76, 1613586894

48 is young.
things will happen quickly if you do it regularly.

good luck mate.

my only advice would be little and often at the start, that gets surf fitness back fastest with less fatigue injuries.

indo-dreaming, 1613597773

@blakey72

If you are going to do it, id recommend doing it soon, water is currently as warm as it gets and not too bad until about May lots of smaller swells and light winds, and crowds not as bad a peak summertime.

Goods luck with it.

velocityjohnno, 1613601218

Hi Blakey, good luck
Grove breaks very gently on such a slight slope I'd suggest the mini-mal of 7ft to 7'6"or so... But as you all said above, if you've lived your surfing life based off the front-foot and using the jet of trimming or pumping the fins to generate speed - maybe the really floaty thruster is the go. (And more shortboardy waves around the corner...) The mini-mal and longboard might be more back foot in turns, like a single fin: turn only to slow down rather than a necessity to generate speed. Point and shoot rather than side to side.

It's fascinating really, two completely different biomechanic approaches. Reading lines on the wave is be similar for both - eg when to take a high line, when to head back to the power, etc As so many young people are taking up longboards, the old way is new again...

frog, 1614823542

Update on the super wide flat rocker short board high volume experience. Still happy. In quick hollow waves you really notice the width and can feel it does not quite fit the curves of the wave or make quick reaction ankle driven turns and adjustments cutting into the wave face in hollow sections easy.

However, you can make it work. I am a big believer in learning to adapt to the board not fighting it or getting frustrated.

Often you don't even notice the width and slip in as quickly as on a narrower board. I had one wave a while ago where it lined up forever down the beach and I swooped in fast and just took off so fast that my eyes watered - just pure down the line speed with the flat rocker doing its thing. I made something that almost seemed a closeout.

Occasionally, though, I might take my more standard thruster out in hollow, fast reaction type stuff. The benefit of going short, not long, is that the transition should be easy.

I have lost a few kilos partly due to the motivation of not relying on mini mal volume and overall feel 10 + years younger and positive about my surfing.

A mate grumbled the other day in an email about crowds, age, better in the old days type stuff. That can be a real trap of your own making for the older surfer. I really proved this summer "seek and ye shall find" - picking the right spot choice, time of day, tide, swell, place in line-up etc.

Whereas I looked back over one of my better summers of surf in years and anticipation for autumn and felt very fortunate. And, that is all partly due to one new board decision.

Pops, 1614828716

Good stuff Frog, sounds like the board's been a good investment!

Is the rocker pretty flat throughout, or does it have a bit of a tail kick? What's the bottom contour like? And related to those two, how's it go with controlling & utilising the speed it gives you, and how well does it "hold" on a steeper wave?

blackers, 1614833320

Glad it is working for you Frog. In a somewhat similar fashion, my current fave board is relatively short (for me at least) and with a really flat rocker, but not so wide. The meat is in the domed deck, allowing for finer rails without the loss of volume, which, combined with the width, make it possible to put on its rail pretty easily. The speed is what makes it so much fun. Getting the right fins has been the hardest part but that is sorted now. Also fully agree with the "work with it not against it" approach.

frog, 1614848379

The board has limited tail kick. No problems holding in on steeper waves. Once you are trimming the rail is what you are riding. Forward trim is fast but pretty straight lines but so are most boards. Further back it feels more like normal thruster - you can pump it, weave or turn.

udo, 1619493772

Be a fun ride .....as a long Twin even ..?
nice fitment of Futures boxes against the channels
shame about the price..
Have you seen Hilts surf this Freeride ?

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/lennox-head/surfing/custom-tomo-surfboard-7-8-big-wave-gun-futures-55-l-quad-fin-/1273055279

freeride76, 1619494152

I'm not sure Udo, I would think so.
I like the look of that shape.

goofyfoot, 1619497458

I reckon that’s a hideous looking surfboard

udo, 1619498918

https://www.tomosurf.com/model/psykonaut/

unclethirsy, 1621318543

hi guys, well here we are 12 mths after my last post & yep its hit the fan again. Recovery was going great fitness was getting better & I was just about to come off the Prednisone! yahoo..felt so good ordered a new board off Grant Miller. So, just before I get the board off Grant I finally went to Dr about pain in side of knee & yes it was RS, prednisone had been masking the pain for a long while.End of story, I'm now 3 weeks post total knee replacement with a beautiful new board sitting downstairs & wont get wet for coupla months yet & I ain't getting any younger!! gimmie a break HUEY will ya, lol.

simba, 1621324776

uncle,been there very recently myself, TKR and all i can tell ya is once your off the opioids and the fog clears things will slowly get better......im 4 months in now and had my first couple paddles a few days ago..........Do the rehab...everyone says it and they are right.....the pain will subside and that new miller board will get used but you have to stay focused on your goal.....good luck

I focus, 1621329441

Surfed the other day with a bloke post knee replacement, hang in there Uncle.

unclethirsy, 1621409451

Yeah Simba, Ifocus. rehab is very important, did 3 hrs at rehab today got to do twice a week for 4 weeks plus about 11/2 hrs per day at home.

tlearyus, 1644913703

Well another year has passed since my last post and nothing much has changed. I still only get one decent wave out of every 10 surfs I have and I have tried everything suggested in this forum. I have lost some weight, tried new boards, strengthened my arms, but nothing seems to make any difference. I have 7 boards ranging from 7'8 to 9'1 and have surfed in all types of conditions, but just can't seem to get into any decent waves. I always get out positioned or out paddled by other surfers and even when i get up at 5:30am and surf by myself I still don't manage to do any better.

I have surfed 42 times from Dec 10th to Feb 13th and have caught 3 waves, and only one really good ride.

Is it time to finally give up trying after 30 years of surfing?

etarip, 1644914259

There’s some good mountain biking tips on another thread?

tlearyus, 1644915138

LOL I already do that

PS: I see empathy is not your strong point?

etarip, 1644915684

Ah, tlearyus… I feel for ya bro. Was trying to be light-hearted. I got nothing…

surf somewhere different, with no crowds. Take a few weeks off and just go sit at a b-class / c-class beginner wave away from the crowds. Surf 2-3 times a day. Eat healthy. Bodysurf between sessions. I reckon you might be over-thinking it.
Dunno where you live but there’s a few spots on the east coast that would be good for a trip like that.

blackers, 1644916398

Maybe just enjoy it for what it is mate. Plenty of crew ain’t no JJF or Gabs., but we make do, get a buzz from the little things. Enjoy the waves you get, enjoy being in the ocean. Either that or, as you suggested, pack it in and do something else. No disrespect intended but if it ain’t fun,find something that is. Good luck.

groundswell, 1644917221

tlearyus, do you go home and visualize getting to your feet, and all things that help you surf well?
Getting a feeling for it starts with visualization at home. Groms do that and that's why they start ripping

frog, 1644917380

tlearyus,

That is hard to read. A mystery but I still feel that it can be solved.

Perhaps ask someone to watch you for 20 minutes on an empty small beach break and let them give you some tips.

Maybe just focus on the 9 footer in waist high and below surf that is uncrowded and just catch anything that comes your way. Make sure you are well forward when paddling.

Watch some vids on the basics of wave catching to break the habits you have slipped into

https://youtu.be/EZpO1wTnwoc

https://youtu.be/k_Vd9SYg4wI

On a 9 ft board you can have a ball on knee high and waist high waves and all the hottest and frothers are not interested. Empty micro waves are super common.

tlearyus, 1644990696

Thanks again Frog I will watch these tonight and take onboard the other comments. I surfed again today at lunch time out the back of Scotts Head point break in nice 4ft clean easterly waves and once again only got one wave in over 90m. All the better surfers sit much deeper and closer to the best take off spot, so I tend to sit a bit inside and wider, which means I have to wait for someone to fall off or miss one. It’s so frustrating, day after day, week after week seeing everyone else catching waves in right in front of me but I am determined to crack this. I am much more surf fit than I was a year ago and my paddling has improved but I have zero confidence because I don’t catch any waves.

Whenever I surf down the beach the waves are usually crap and mostly close out so that really doesn’t help me.

PS: Frog if you ever come down to Scotts ahead let me know and we can go for a surf together.

udo, 1644998110

Hi mate they are a nice friendly bunch of Fellas in that area
Ask for some hints help from them ...Dont be shy or embarrassed.

Island Bay, 1644998801

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bU7XzAb6AGM

tlearyus, 1645000775

[quote=udo]Hi mate they are a nice friendly bunch of Fellas in that area
Ask for some hints help from them ...Dont be shy or embarrassed.[/quote]

Yes I have lived here 12 years and the local crew are mostly friendly with many of them encouraging me to keep trying etc after they have witnessed me really struggle for the last 5 years day after day. However they don't really offer any help or real pointers, and when I have asked them they mostly say they never really think about their paddling or take off etc they just do it. Then they paddle inside me and catch another one in front of me.

zenagain, 1645005666

I dunno if this helps a bit but when i was learning to surf, I used to paddle basically straight towards the beach trying to catch the wave and then I'd get dumped or the wave would run away from me.

An older guy told me to try paddling in on an angle more in the direction the wave is going. That should give you a little bit of forward momentum and you're already travelling in the direction the wave is breaking.

Of course there are so many other variables and no wave is ever the same, so it comes down to timing and making all those split second calculations in order to catch the wave.

But, that one little piece of advice helped me get to my feet and up and riding.

Good luck mate, surfing is hard but that feeling can't be beat.

seeds, 1645006676

You’re not paddling with your legs wide apart and lying too far back on the board as in with the nose of the board too high in the air? I just had a quick google and this is what I’m talking about
https://www.surfandnourish.com/beginners/lying-on-your-longboard/

flollo, 1645006837

[quote=tlearyus] Then they paddle inside me and catch another one in front of me.[/quote]

Classic snaking! On the other hand, if you go deep they will 'estimate' that you are too deep and drop in right in front of you.

There is no easy way mate, you need to go right on the peak, give a couple of sets to others but once you get a chance you need to paddle in and hold your position. If the break is too heavy to take off right on the peak you need to move to a gentle location until you build a skillset for heavier take-off zones.

I will also recommend a very dirty solution - try SUP, it might be a savior :-).

SocialD, 1645007428

Surf some where else. You have been surfing the same place for a couple of years. At least the close outs down the beach will give you confidence and much needed practice catching waves. Even if you start by not standing up.,just catch them lying down. Of course just catching dumping shore breaks is not ideal. You need to be out on a sand bank.

tlearyus, 1645007861

Yeah I often sit too wide off the peak because it’s far more critical closer to the peak especially at Scotts Head Point when it’s over 5ft and I just don’t have enough confidence to get up quickly enough. The other thing is I often am on longer boards over 8’0 8’6 and 9’1 to help me paddle faster but then I feel the boards are too long to take a steep drop. I am going to try some shorter boards between 7’2 and 7’8 next.

[quote=flollo][quote=tlearyus] Then they paddle inside me and catch another one in front of me.[/quote]

Classic snaking! On the other hand, if you go deep they will 'estimate' that you are too deep and drop in right in front of you.

There is no easy way mate, you need to go right on the peak, give a couple of sets to others but once you get a chance you need to paddle in and hold your position. If the break is too heavy to take off right on the peak you need to move to a gentle location until you build a skillset for heavier take-off zones.

I will also recommend a very dirty solution - try SUP, it might be a savior :-).[/quote]

tlearyus, 1645008023

No not at all mate, I have been surfing for 30 years so I know how to position myself on my board properly as I paddle in. If anything, I might be too far fwd as I often bury the nose into the wave as I am trying to pop up. I am going to try arching my back more just before the pop up to raise the nose a bit more.

[quote=seeds]You’re not paddling with your legs wide apart and lying too far back on the board as in with the nose of the board too high in the air? I just had a quick google and this is what I’m talking about
https://www.surfandnourish.com/beginners/lying-on-your-longboard/[/quote]

seeds, 1645008616

30 years surfing? You must know what’s up. Has it been like this for 30 years? I’m thinking this is a gee up

tlearyus, 1645046285

[quote=seeds]30 years surfing? You must know what’s up. Has it been like this for 30 years? I’m thinking this is a gee up[/quote]

No it’s only been happening in the last 5 years. Before that I got my fair share of waves and even had a few epic sessions like clean 10ft Dixon Park days in the 90’s and classic Broken Head barrels in the early 2000’s. I am 58 now though and 98kg but am surf fit and do daily exercise like riding my bike and lots of daily walks with my dogs etc.

I have surfed everywhere on the east coast of Australia from Noosa to Bega and even surfed at Wilson Prom once where I scored some epic waves. This is why the last 5 years have been so frustrating and depressing, I know how to surf, and have lots of experience in all types of surf from 1ft slop to heavy 12ft Newcastle bombs but nothing that I try seems to be making any difference. The crowds these days are not helping either.

seeds, 1645049897

Did you quit for a while? I’m kooking it these days too but not to that point. Haven’t surfed much last couple of years put on 10kg I sure don’t need and very unfit. I’m 98kg also. Been getting back into it and not going great but am enjoying being in the water again.
Had to beef up board dimensions as I was not getting into the waves and getting hung up and caught behind too much. Then my pop up was terrible so that’s all I focused on for a few weeks. Things are getting better. Maybe focus on one thing at a time then move on to the next.

zenagain, 1645054916

You and I Seeds are kindred spirits. I won't lie, I've been struggling a bit recently. Winter doesn't help. But I'm still trying to get out there and preserve what I have.

Boardwise, I'm ready to size up.

seeds, 1645057163

I went crazy big. Went into one of those board stores that everything’s made overseas and thought fudge it I’m gunna get a tanker. 7’0x22x3 @53 litres. Round tail quad. I’m actually enjoying the extra length and the turns that come with that. Enjoying being out there. With my weight at the moment it’s no problem burying a bit of rail even with that crazy volume.

udo, 1645057529

[quote=tlearyus][quote=seeds]30 years surfing? You must know what’s up. Has it been like this for 30 years? I’m thinking this is a gee up[/quote]

No it’s only been happening in the last 5 years. Before that I got my fair share of waves and even had a few epic sessions like clean 10ft Dixon Park days in the 90’s and classic Broken Head barrels in the early 2000’s. I am 58 now though and 98kg but am surf fit and do daily exercise like riding my bike and lots of daily walks with my dogs etc.

I have surfed everywhere on the east coast of Australia from Noosa to Bega and even surfed at Wilson Prom once where I scored some epic waves. This is why the last 5 years have been so frustrating and depressing, I know how to surf, and have lots of experience in all types of surf from 1ft slop to heavy 12ft Newcastle bombs but nothing that I try seems to be making any difference. The crowds these days are not helping either.[/quote]
Is it all in your Head ?

zenagain, 1645061479

I'm hearing ya' seeds. I'm not embarrassed to say that I'm gonna go big too. I was thinking roughly same dims, maybe a touch shorter but certainly in that ballpark- round-tail quad, plenty of meat.

My ripping days are sadly behind me but I just love riding waves and if I can bang a turn here or there life will be all good.

frog, 1645062135

Crowds seem a bi part of the issue. A tight crowded point break take off is just hard unless you are quick and nimble. Especially the prime outside section.

Sitting wide or down the line can work. I do it a lot catching wide ones or where someone falls off. But you have to swing quickly and go.

Super early works - short window to grab a few. Late in the day etc.

Step down in quality is an option. Often when the wind is on it the crowd thins a lot and the eagerness and lack of generosity of the hottest fades.

seeds, 1645062779

That’s it Zen. Gotta be fun to keep going back. Even as I trim down and regain fitness I think I’ll stick with a longer board just a bit more refined

GuySmiley, 1645065537

I've read all the comments here and in the excellent forum topic "don't call it a comeback". Many many valuable ideas can be found in both forums, This is what I've learnt through the covid lockdowns and the resultant rare surf.

Boards do necessarily get bigger as we age but personally I think overall volume is less important than a lower rocker, fuller rails and an overall wider profile. Go up in volume paying attention to those other things.

Linked with board selection I think we need to be brutally honest with ourselves and seriously ask the question is it the board or me that needs a changing? That question introduces fitness which I see as 3 inseparable equally important linked issues on an equal sided triangle. These issues are fitness, muscle memory and mental state. Performance in one is interdependent on performance in the other two.

Fitness includes overall health considerations like diet, hydration and weight management along with strength and the ability to perform at a high heart rate (cardio). The ability to recover is here too so stretching or yoga is a vital inclusion. Muscle memory is vital because you can be very fit but your muscles haven't the memory to pop up, crouch, cut back etc so the fitness program needs to be surf specific rather than e.g. just lifting weights at a gym. Mental state is very individual and could include a 1,000 different points but at a basic level should include a high level of confidence in everything you have done to prepare for a surf.

What all that means for me is I'm eating mostly unprocessed food, no alcohol, daily body weight exercises and yoga (both surf specific). Kelly's words about not overtraining also are front of mind so I only push myself surfing or during my surf specific body weight sessions.

Good luck and have fun.

seeds, 1645067406

What body weight exercises are you doing Guy

GuySmiley, 1645070843

[quote=seeds]What body weight exercises are you doing Guy[/quote]

Not really that simple a question seeds as I take exercises from several different programs I have purchased that combine yoga, pilates and body weight. I'm reluctant to be specific because our needs are all different but there are at least 5 AU surf body weight fitness programs you can purchase, all offer excellent online resources/support. However, the one I'm currently using is Nth American (GMB Fitness) because the instructions are precise/clear and surprisingly (or not) the program, although not advertised as surf specific, provides whole body gains in strength and flexibility (along with muscle memory). No recommendation made here apart from find what works for you, it must be fun, and do it often.

linez, 1645071626

[quote=GuySmiley]I've read all the comments here and in the excellent forum topic "don't call it a comeback". Many many valuable ideas can be found in both forums, This is what I've learnt through the covid lockdowns and the resultant rare surf.

Boards do necessarily get bigger as we age but personally I think overall volume is less important than a lower rocker, fuller rails and an overall wider profile. Go up in volume paying attention to those other things.

Linked with board selection I think we need to be brutally honest with ourselves and seriously ask the question is it the board or me that needs a changing? That question introduces fitness which I see as 3 inseparable equally important linked issues on an equal sided triangle. These issues are fitness, muscle memory and mental state. Performance in one is interdependent on performance in the other two.

Fitness includes overall health considerations like diet, hydration and weight management along with strength and the ability to perform at a high heart rate (cardio). The ability to recover is here too so stretching or yoga is a vital inclusion. Muscle memory is vital because you can be very fit but your muscles haven't the memory to pop up, crouch, cut back etc so the fitness program needs to be surf specific rather than e.g. just lifting weights at a gym. Mental state is very individual and could include a 1,000 different points but at a basic level should include a high level of confidence in everything you have done to prepare for a surf.

What all that means for me is I'm eating mostly unprocessed food, no alcohol, daily body weight exercises and yoga (both surf specific). Kelly's words about not overtraining also are front of mind so I only push myself surfing or during my surf specific body weight sessions.

Good luck and have fun.[/quote]
Couldn't agree more GS.

tlearyus, 1645082341

[quote=seeds]Did you quit for a while? I’m kooking it these days too but not to that point. Haven’t surfed much last couple of years put on 10kg I sure don’t need and very unfit. I’m 98kg also. Been getting back into it and not going great but am enjoying being in the water again.
Had to beef up board dimensions as I was not getting into the waves and getting hung up and caught behind too much. Then my pop up was terrible so that’s all I focused on for a few weeks. Things are getting better. Maybe focus on one thing at a time then move on to the next.[/quote]

No I have surfed pretty much the entire time, I lived in Newcastle for 5 years and Byron for 22 years and now Scotts Head so always been on the coast for the last 30 years or so. I have 7 boards ranging from 55L to 72L. Doesn't seem to make any difference really.

The videos Frog posted before on paddle technique are great so am going to try longer, deeper strokes and paddle earlier as soon as a spot a class A wave. This is a big problem for me, positioning and paddling into the wave early enough.

freeride76, 1645082949

I will respectfully make a suggestion, and please don't take it the wrong way.

3 waves in 42 go outs is not surfing.......thats floating around.

I'd purposely lower the bar so low that you can't help but succeed.

Go get a boogie from the dump shop and go ride 3 waves in the whitewater every day....get a wave count up and start riding waves.

Then progress to riding a foamy in the whitewater , standing up in the whitewater.

Move out to little green waves, close-outs whatever.

Then see if you can transfer that to the inside of the Point.

Maybe sell some boards?

You need to get some success happening.

simba, 1645083741

i think you need a coach and im sure Trent Munro runs a surf school at scotts head......try him

simba, 1645084348

Seeds also you said your board is 53 liters , well for a bloke who's 98 ks that's not a lot for someone struggling to get back into it.......believe me i'm going down that path myself but when your out somewhere and your watching all the manbuns ride past who are 20 remember they are on boards with probably 60 liters of vol and they weigh 70 ks.........have a look at Harley Ingleby Moe 7-4 or 8fter exy but good all round boards that are light strong and work

seeds, 1645086163

Yeah fair point Simba but don’t worry it’s heaps for me and easy paddle ins now. Got rid of the frustrations as tlearyus is saying. Now I can work on regaining technique which is coming along nicely. I’ve always liked a chunkier board. Tiger has shaped a few for me quite a while back when I was younger slimmer and fitter and I always asked for a bit of beef compared to normal. I just got to get my mind right, lose the booze and and eat right.

seeds, 1645086383

Oh and can’t stand epoxy boards. Tried 2 and can’t keep the tail/fins engaged in the face even with my weight. Feel horribly loose and skittish

morg, 1645235349

Hey #tlearyus I hear you. Went through a bit of a similar phase and basically did what FR76 suggested. I bought flippers, made a timber handplane (with six channels LOL) and did a bit of body bashing and lid riding for a couple of weeks. Had fun surfing sh#t waves and re-learning what was natural to me as a kid. It also made me acutely aware of how many waves I was previously letting go when on my surfboards. I starting getting lots of waves which got the stoke back and then i just had to get back on my surfboard.

tlearyus, 1645486629

[quote=morg]Hey #tlearyus I hear you. Went through a bit of a similar phase and basically did what FR76 suggested. I bought flippers, made a timber handplane (with six channels LOL) and did a bit of body bashing and lid riding for a couple of weeks. Had fun surfing sh#t waves and re-learning what was natural to me as a kid. It also made me acutely aware of how many waves I was previously letting go when on my surfboards. I starting getting lots of waves which got the stoke back and then i just had to get back on my surfboard.[/quote]

Not a bad suggestion but I already swim and body surf a lot, almost daily and I catch plenty of good body surfing waves and practice reading the incoming waves, direction etc.

tlearyus, 1645486905

[quote=freeride76]I will respectfully make a suggestion, and please don't take it the wrong way.

3 waves in 42 go outs is not surfing.......thats floating around.

I'd purposely lower the bar so low that you can't help but succeed.

Go get a boogie from the dump shop and go ride 3 waves in the whitewater every day....get a wave count up and start riding waves.

Then progress to riding a foamy in the whitewater , standing up in the whitewater.

Move out to little green waves, close-outs whatever.

Then see if you can transfer that to the inside of the Point.

Maybe sell some boards?

You need to get some success happening.[/quote]

The thing is i still get the odd good wave every now and again, which keeps me going and reminds me that I can actually still surf. For example I got a cracker about two weeks ago from way out the back of the point for over 250m with plenty of turns and cut backs. But then I haven't caught another good wave since then.

PS: I am reading every suggestion here and will keep trying different things.

goofyfoot, 1645489625

I’m baffled how you can surf for 30 years, including sessions in 12 foot waves and then have all the dramas you’re having.

Hope you sort it out

freeride76, 1645489794

I don't either.

No disrespect- but you have entire sessions without catching a wave?

How do you get back to shore, paddle-in?

zenagain, 1645492068

Yeah, I'm a little skeptical too.

I'm ashamed to say I've been doing FA surfing recently (tons of snowboarding though- Yew!) and am not exactly surf fit. I need a new board as I've put on a few kegs and am way under volume. I don't get as many waves as I like but I still get a handful each sesh.

I'm not seeing how you can be surf fit, have the right equipment and 30 years experience and not catch a wave?

Blowin, 1645493620

I reckon it’s a pisstske.

Went for a walk up Scott’s beach a few days ago when visiting a mate and there was chest high beachie rollers without anyone on them. Old mate could have caught a million waves on his log. That’s if he didn’t want to surf the point which looked like fun at waist high with only a couple out.

Too many options around there to get waves to yourself.

frog, 1645495560

Another vid for you.

https://youtu.be/rS9LRP6BpXo

The shoulder spot (surfers with the arrows) can seem safer and easier for take off but it means you will get paddled inside of all the time but also the wave has less push out there so often you will not even catch it if no-one is inside. Often some surfers paddle out and spend the whole surf just where those guys under the arrows are. Half paddling, pulling back, watching enviously, giving it to the inside guy and blaming the surf or crowds for lack of waves.

Paddle, early and hard and look like you are going no matter what - all sorts of people will pull back and let you have it. Hesitancy sends a signal to the others around you for that wave and then future waves. You will get mentally classified by the other surfers as easy pickings.

Fear of wipeouts and fear of wasting waves by falling off often creates hesitancy. This just feeds on itself. You just have to pick spot and place in the line up and then your target wave and go hard and live with the consequences.

Even in empty surf I paddle around fast - bursts of speed to catch waves then fast again on the way back out - helps build fitness and gets me in early and by paddling fast and thinking fast my pop up becomes faster as well.

Even so, I am over 60 and avoiding crowds is the number 1 solution but not always possible. I can get waves at a place like Dbah as in the vid as it is has gaps and randomness but have to be in the mood. Outside Snapper type take off in full crowd mode - nup I just lose interest.

GuySmiley, 1645502252

He needs Uplift to train the bejeeebus out him, that what he needs!

tlearyus, 1645755857

[quote=freeride76]I don't either.
No disrespect- but you have entire sessions without catching a wave?
How do you get back to shore, paddle-in?
[/quote]

Yep 9/10 surfs for more than 4 years now, and with a long term average of 3-4 surfs per week.

Yep all too often, or catch a broken wave on my stomach.

tlearyus, 1645756076

[quote=Blowin]I reckon it’s a pisstske.

Went for a walk up Scott’s beach a few days ago when visiting a mate and there was chest high beachie rollers without anyone on them. Old mate could have caught a million waves on his log. That’s if he didn’t want to surf the point which looked like fun at waist high with only a couple out.

Too many options around there to get waves to yourself.[/quote]

Well I have lived here 13 years and live one block from the beach. I walk my two dogs twice a day and check the surf multiple times each day. Ask other locals, they all know the troubles I have been having because they see me out with them not catching any waves every other day. I get dropped in on a lot because better surfers paddle inside me or just drop in anyway as they assume i won't catch the wave am paddling for after years of watching me so it's a double impact as people treat you like the weak surfer in the pack and don't show ANY RESPECT.

tlearyus, 1645756410

[quote=frog]Another vid for you.
https://youtu.be/rS9LRP6BpXo
Paddle, early and hard and look like you are going no matter what - all sorts of people will pull back and let you have it. Hesitancy sends a signal to the others around you for that wave and then future waves. You will get mentally classified by the other surfers as easy pickings.
Fear of wipeouts and fear of wasting waves by falling off often creates hesitancy. This just feeds on itself. You just have to pick spot and place in the line up and then your target wave and go hard and live with the consequences.
[/quote]

Thanks again Frog, and these two issues are two of my biggest problems, especially in bigger waves when the take off is critical. There is generally only one primary take off spot at Scotts point which gets very crowded and competitive but I think I am just going to have to take some beatings and get into the more critical take off zone. Sitting out of position away from the steepest take off zone is killing me.

CraigFitz, 1648335419

Hi, I just want to add my 2c worth based on the new comments. I am 60, 100kg, always been big and could drop 10kg for sure, had both hips replaced 10 yrs ago. I get out there 1-2 times a week.

See a PT once a week who is early 50s and surfs so understands what I am up against.

Regularly do his routines and definitely think it helps with the missing strength/power to get onto a wave. But, I definitely need to up the intensity based on comments here

My issues are accelerating onto the wave to catch it and the popup. I think getting onto the wave is the bigger problem.

But, I struggle on and am not giving up. Sessions range between getting 3 or 4 waves when I am over the moon, or getting 1 only and blowing it.

Surf at cronulla and will always find the least crowded, shittiest bank to go out. Wont even think about going on a crowded peak. At least I have the luxury of being able to get out there mid week if it is looking good.

Lastly, I question tlearyus as well. Why would you even think of sitting on the peak at Scott's head when there must be miles of empty beach break peaks to choose from. Doesn't make any sense.

Anyway, good luck to you all with the same issues. I enjoy these threads.

zenagain, 1648352730

If you don't mind me asking Craig- what sort of board are you currently riding? Also, do you know in litres? I'm a bit younger and a bit lighter than you, but not by much.

I'm asking because I'm gonna bite the bullet and go longer, wider and thicker cause I've been struggling to get waves recently. Up and riding, no probs. Catching them is another matter.

Any other big units want to chime in, feel free.

Supafreak, 1648353216

[quote=zenagain]If you don't mind me asking Craig- what sort of board are you currently riding? Also, do you know in litres? I'm a bit younger and a bit lighter than you, but not by much.

I'm asking because I'm gonna bite the bullet and go longer, wider and thicker cause I've been struggling to get waves recently. Up and riding, no probs. Catching them is another matter.

Any other big units want to chime in, feel free.[/quote]
What type of waves do you typically surf the most ? Up to 4-5ft Id recommend one of MCs reverse V hybrids . Goes really good in lumpy bumpy crap but also performs well in 4-5 ft hollow waves , catches waves pretty easily

zenagain, 1648353783

I have a couple of MC's, a 6'5" Pro-tow which is my step up and a 6'2" Dirty Dingo which is my groveller. I was looking at maybe a Red Dingo if from him. But he hasn't been able to get back to Japan because of covid.

I ride a mixture of waves, wally point waves similar to Trestles and also a lot of beachies. Sometimes a couple of reef waves that can get pretty chunky when the waves turn on. Big waves kinda scare me now and unless it's perfect, double OH is about my limit. I guess waist high to head and a half is kinda my sweetspot.

zenagain, 1648354124

I just had a quick squiz at the reverse v hybrid. I like the look of it.

Supafreak, 1648354669

[quote=zenagain]I have a couple of MC's, a 6'5" Pro-tow which is my step up and a 6'2" Dirty Dingo which is my groveller. I was looking at maybe a Red Dingo if from him. But he hasn't been able to get back to Japan because of covid.

I ride a mixture of waves, wally point waves similar to Trestles and also a lot of beachies. Sometimes a couple of reef waves that can get pretty chunky when the waves turn on. Big waves kinda scare me now and unless it's perfect, double OH is about my limit. I guess waist high to head and a half is kinda my sweetspot.[/quote]
You won’t be disappointed in the hybrid reverse v Go to the 13.17 minute mark , this one is a 7.0 , Ive got a 6’8” lots of fun hangs in well and really fast considering how wide it is . https://youtu.be/b77xyWf5tDY

zenagain, 1648355288

Cheers Supa. I'll check it out.

Edit: Think I found my new board.

Supafreak, 1648356099

[quote=zenagain]Cheers Supa. I'll check it out.

Edit: Think I found my new board.[/quote]
I like it best as a quad , good luck whatever you go with , nothing like a new board to bring out the grommet juices in us . I bounce around between 90-95 kg , 61 yo this year.

blackers, 1648356695

Good looking boards Zen, reckon they will be fun. Was looking at them earlier in the year. I am in the same ballpark age and weight wise 56, 95 kg but have always ridden longer boards being a fair bit taller than average. Currently spending most time on a 6’10 (46 L) by a local shaper. Running it as a keel twin and loving it in most conditions. Have a Joel Fitz Cosmic Twin on order, 6’10, 44 L, looking for a similar vibe but purpose built twin. Extra. Volume a must when you need a 4/3 or heavier in winter.

morg, 1648359145

Slightly off topic but what wetsuits do the ‘rounder guys” wear? Seems to me that the main surf brands sell wetsuits for slim to average chunkiness, but no one seems to sell steamers for enthusiastic kegs on legs. A guy I know is just getting back into surfing after about a 20 year absence and he can’t find a spring suite to fit. Not sure if that just because of what’s available in store, or if he’s correct and they don’t exist.

zenagain, 1648361575

Ha, we seem to be cast of the same mold- 54 and 95 k's of pure love.

blackers, 1648362053

[quote=morg]Slightly off topic but what wetsuits do the ‘rounder guys” wear? Seems to me that the main surf brands sell wetsuits for slim to average chunkiness, but no one seems to sell steamers for enthusiastic kegs on legs. A guy I know is just getting back into surfing after about a 20 year absence and he can’t find a spring suite to fit. Not sure if that just because of what’s available in store, or if he’s correct and they don’t exist.[/quote]
The bigger blokes I know go XXL and sometimes trim to fit. My problem is at the other end, most suits are too short in the leg. Not a problem in warmer months but when booties are needed its a bit crap. Needessentials do make an XLT which allows my toes to avoid regular flushing and freezing.

zenagain, 1648371341

Stock standard XL seems to fit me fine. I'm 180cm tall.

morg, 1648522218

Cheers.

udo, 1648525507

OK Morg how Fat is this bloke...Whats his Height and KGs ?

Island Bay, 1648526625

As an older surfer (58yo) and no lightweight (80kg), I'm happy to say that I recently got the best Daily Driver shorty: Pyzalien 2, 6'3 x 20 1/4 x 2 5/8. 36L.

If you're looking for something quick and lively, yet easy to surf and paddle, I can thoroughly recommend this. Massive range too.

udo, 1648545306

In PU ?

seeds, 1648547621

80 kegs. That’s normal unless you’re a short fella. I wish I was 80 kegs. I was 10 years ago. Only got myself to blame. 5’11 tall

Island Bay, 1648573362

6'1 X 80kgs, seeds.

Always PU, udo.

samerubi, 1648595777

[quote=zenagain]If you don't mind me asking Craig- what sort of board are you currently riding? Also, do you know in litres? I'm a bit younger and a bit lighter than you, but not by much.

I'm asking because I'm gonna bite the bullet and go longer, wider and thicker cause I've been struggling to get waves recently. Up and riding, no probs. Catching them is another matter.

Any other big units want to chime in, feel free.[/quote]

samerubi, 1648596083

my mistake...
i am nearly 50 and 95kg.
i am enjoying riding an 80's style thruster by Gunther - about 37L.
the thing is about this style of thruster is they go in a really wide range of conditions.
from back in the day when most of us only had one board which had to do it all.
after chopping and changing boards every other surf i am finding i am surfing much better by staying on the one board.

morg, 1648596564

@udo he's 5'10" 94kg (this week). Thing is he's not a skinny guy with a gut, over the years he's sort of filled out all over a bit like a pacific islander rugby players. He said that when he finds one round enough the legs and arms are about a foot to long LOL. He's decided to get a custom.

groundswell, 1649112921

[quote=samerubi]my mistake...
i am nearly 50 and 95kg.
i am enjoying riding an 80's style thruster by Gunther - about 37L.
the thing is about this style of thruster is they go in a really wide range of conditions.
from back in the day when most of us only had one board which had to do it all.
after chopping and changing boards every other surf i am finding i am surfing much better by staying on the one board.[/quote]

Three of my friends here in Kalbarri are brothers and sponsored by Gunther, he makes excellent boards and those brothers are some of the best surfers in this town. A town full of excellent surfers.(only 1100 people live here the ratio of good surfers to population is amazing)
But they are super fit, all three of them and ride id say around 28 litres on big days at Jakes.
The eldest brother has a video on youtube of him at gnaraloo getting a super long drainpipe at around 8-10 foot ill see if i can find it.Not as heavy as camels pit but pretty good.

udo, 1649113456

Gd value for any Big Beefy Boys - 1/2 price
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/739539840375238/?ref=marketplace_profile&referral_code=undefined

frog, 1656387112

Your weight is just one factor in determining board volume and type. Another big one is nimbleness and "lightness on feet". Some surfers never have this. Most of us lose it over time.

Older guys who retain this "lightness" on the water through ability, lots of surfing and good genetics can surf much shorter, lower volume boards. At competitive spots they seem to be everywhere but this is just survival of the fittest - not reality for most.

Me? Once up and riding and in rhythm on a good wave with a longer wall, I do okay and probably look fairly fast in the speed zone and free flowing. But light-on-feet, instant speed is just not there at call day to day or on every wave. Sometimes I just want lazy speed. After a few hours in the water I slow down even more and volume helps.

Volume is therefore more than a simple formulae based on your weight. One guru's formula (pounds / 6) would have me on a 29 litre board!

Add five or ten litres every extra second it takes to get off the couch maybe.

zenagain, 1656743370

Been reading back through this thread and it’s been quite insightful and especially with regards to how things can change in a few short years.

Anyway, I'm finally coming home for a quick visit at the end of the month and am looking at buying a board off the rack. Actually, gonna buy it from here and have it sent to my mums to have it waiting upon my arrival. I haven't had much time to go down the custom path so was looking at a few boards and the Hypto Krypto kinda seems like a bit of an all-rounder. Hoping anyone can chime in with advice or personal experience (Frog maybe if you're out there?).

My weight is kinda holding at the 95kg mark and I exercise everyday but haven't been getting much time in the surf, so paddling fitness has waned quite a bit. I'm 54 years old now and still surf ok, just been struggling a bit to catch waves. Also, in winter, wearing all my kit can tip me just over the ton. I find it hard to lose weight, haven't touched a drop of alcohol in 6 months but the weight hasn't changed much as a result of that.

Long story short, is there much difference in 5 litres of board? I was thinking either of these two:-

6'6"
X
21"
X
3"
Futures
IN STOCK
45.52L

6'8"
X
22"
X
3 1/4"
FCS II
IN STOCK
51.4L

Which would would you suggest I go for? You reckon 45lt is enough for me which is pretty much a weekend surfer or should I go the extra 5lt and go 51? Anybody surfing these sorts of dimensions and how are they surfing as a result of that?

Little embarrassed writing this but fuck it, I just want to get waves.

Any and all responses most appreciated.

frog, 1656747477

At 95kg plus wetsuit plus low fitness, 45 L will not let you cruise into waves.

In uncrowded, well lined up waves simply by good placement at the take off and the number of waves available, you will still do okay at that volume.

In crowds and where you have to hunt around, higher volume might be needed to grab the rarer opportunities.

At 45 L you could still duckdive - just. At 50L duck diving would be hard. Worth a thought.

Losing weight is not that hard IF you can stick to small portions and minimal snacking It just falls off. You have to say no to yourself a lot and have a simple lifestyle where you control the food. Cutting out bread for example made a big shift in my weight - both for the carbs per slice and the tendency to eat too much if it - finish the loaf, eat the extra roll while it is so fresh and yummy ....

Supafreak, 1656748913

@zen , we are the same weight but I’m 7 years older . I had a 6’4” hypto when I first moved back to oz ( tweed heads ) and it was ok but I didn’t like the way it came of the top when doing a reo , just felt weird and like I was getting bogged down. I sold it after 6 months. I think the type of waves your riding really dictate the type of board you need . I’ve previously told you about MC hybrid reverse v 6’8” ( not sure about ltrs) I have as a board for fat junky slow crap that the we get served up 70% of the time in the tweed Gold Coast region. For my indo trip I brought a 6’2” custom Tomo hydroshort 38 ltrs and it goes good in 1-5 ft but as soon as there is any chop the epoxy doesn’t handle it well at all . I have a 6’8 “ 44 ltrs step up hydronaut which is LFT FireWire construction which in the hydronaut is a heavier blank and glass job. I’ve had this in solid 6-8ft and it goes unreal even if some chop and bump on the face . The hydronaut is a really good board but only if the waves are hollow and steep it’s very responsive but wasn’t a big seller as FireWire has dropped that model and only do the hydroshort which in helium is too corky. Tomos customs are different construction and expensive $1220 plus gst . There is a huge range of boards to consider and besides your age weight and fitness have a good think about the type of waves your surfing. Good luck with your choice, it’s not easy when there is so much to choose from .

Fliplid, 1656750275

One thing to keep in mind is that the Hypto is wider up front than standard outlines so the extra foam under the chest means it’s going to paddle better than a more standard shape of similar dimensions. From memory they carry a bit more thickness through to the nose as well

A few mates were frothing on them when they first came out and they all went shorter than what they usually rode with no dramas. The EPS construction probably helps in that regard as well

AndyM, 1656750425

I'd get the 6'8" Zen.
I'm 98kg, 50 years old and pretty fit and those dimensions are similar to my day-to-day board.
I'm done with anything smaller, it's just too hit and miss.
The glide on those bigger boards is great, lots of fun.
The downsides are obvious, they're a bitch to duckdive and they're not exactly fast rail to rail.
Having said that, in 3ft+ they get up and boogie just fine.

blackers, 1656750656

Good advice above Zen. I have heard the hypto can be really finicky size wise and easy to get it wrong. The MC reverse v's look excellent, but not sure how easy to get one in stock tho. My circumstances are not too dissimilar just turned 56, 95 kg, cold water, don't surf as much as I used to. That said I still ride short boards/fish around 40L and mids around 46L. You do notice the extra litres good and bad aspects. Good luck mate.

udo, 1656751084

Zen dont forget Muzz ...........6'8" Pinger ?
https://pipedreamsurfboards.com/collections/boards-online

AndyM, 1656751316

Highly recommend https://www.webstersurfboards.com.au, Webbie will sit and talk with you for as long as it takes until he's sure he knows what you're after.

blackers, 1656758826

One last thing, Andy touched on it too, it’s the glide that keeps me coming back. Swooping turns, high line speed runs and all that. A bit of additional length helps but not too boaty. Really thick boards can be too hard to sink a rail when you want to. I’m 6’5” and have found up to 7’2” works well, my longer boards have more refined rails and roiled v bottoms which help. Edit: the 7’2” is 21 1/4 x 2 7/8 @ 47L. I reckon that Hypto may be too fat through the rails.

zenagain, 1656759362

Cheers legends.

Ha ha- you're making it even harder now though.

I reckon I'll go bigger. My rip, tear, lacerate days are behind me. I'm just happy to get my glide on.

Thanks all for your responses.

Supafreak, 1656760552

@zen , when I moved back to oz I was shocked at the price of boards and didn’t know what the fck people were talking about when they said “ how many litres ? “ also couldn’t believe fins didn’t come with board , what happened ? when I brought my hypto from the rack I said firmly to the salesman that there no way I was paying the $1099 price tag , he said no worries he would look after me and ended up costing $900 with decent fins , leggie , deck pad and block of wax . Glide on zen and enjoy your first trip back to oz since the pandemic started.

zenagain, 1656762275

Cheers Supa, I'm really looking forward to getting home for a visit and hooking up with a few mates for a surf and of course seeing family and some of the new additions to the flock.

I'm still leaning towards the Hypto cause I'm a pretty much front foot surfer and I need a lot of foam foward.

MC shaped me a Dirty Dingo a few years back and that went so well. I've surfed that into the ground. If and when he gets back here, I'd like to get another one, just with a little extra meat. I've got a Pro-tow that I use when the surf gets good. Still in perfect nick.

arcadia, 1656767808

Enjoy your trip back, Zen. I'll be back during August. I'm feeling a little giddy as it's my first visit in 5 years.

zenagain, 1656769020

You too mate. I was last back home Oct 2017.

Probs won't recognise the place.

freeride76, 1656809261

Hey Zen, I'll echo the comments on the Hypto rail volume.

they get, very, very chunky.

Easy board to hire.

Could you take the two for a test drive and see which one you prefer?

groundswell, 1656809922

i also agree with freeride, i usually surf front footed as i mostly used to surf fish over east coast but never liked my hypto. But i didnt buy one till i got to west oz and it didnt gel with the waves i was surfing. (not heavy waves either)Sold it to a 6'4 Friend who loved it at small jakes but it was way too small for him and he sold it and bought a bigger one.I dont know if he's front footed or not. Also i cant surf as well as i used to and it takes me longer to get used to new shapes but i dont think they are for everyone.

groundswell, 1656822001

One shaper i would talk to Zen is Mark Pridmore, ask about the quadfather i got the very first one and he named the design quadfather after that and has kept it pretty similar since and everyone loves the glide and round tail mckee quad turning ability. Thats a board designed in 2007 and still going strong and getting more orders all the time. When i was fit at first it felt a bit boaty for my 65 or 70 kg (6'6" length board 12 inch nose i think)but in bigger waves it handled 8 foot moneytrees drops without bogging like some thinner boards did i had it designed as a step up from twin keels as in bigger waves that fish dont like too much,high performance step ups or mini guns were too narrow for my feels and felt too turny or wobbly.
I had a 6'8 mini gun that was 18 inches wide and surfed it on a 8 foot reef in Wollongong and couldnt handle the narrow width after riding 20" wide fish. kooked it and wasted my 2 hour lunchbreak surf which was an epic day that i missed out on because i couldnt surf a normal mini gun. I was fit but just couldnt surf a 18" wide mini gun. anyway the quadfather was a treat. However my mate got one and he was used to high performance shortboard shapes and didnt like his quadfather. He didnt ride fish though. Bodyboards, shortboards and step ups mainly. Hes a marathon runner and super fit lives in indonesia most of the time and rips any board but just didnt like his quadfather as he said it felt like too much board.
I think its a 12 inch nose from memory.Anyway if your mums place is in QLD i recommend you talk to MP about some of his designs.Hes on the sunshine coast and on facebook.
Another good design my mate loved was his fatbat. not a bigger wave board, more small to 5 foot day board and my mate said he preferred it to my banksy fish i gave him.The banks fish was the best board i ever owned.

udo, 1656822932

Zen maybe have a chat with Nev ?
https://www.swellnet.com/comment/816878#comment-816878

zenagain, 1656823247

Cheers guys. I'm not sure about test driving cause I'm really pressed for time and tbh I'm returning home at not the happiest of times (my mum is very ill) so my focus is family first.

I've just been poking around online and the Hypto kinda stands out with the low rocker, lotta foam forward and pulled in tail. I've been kinda transitioning organically in the last few years from HPSB's to more hybridy shapes. I'm cognizant of the width and chunky rails of the big Hypto but the surf I surf in here is kinda reminiscent of east coast oz. Also, I do have a good step-up if the waves get big and good, but my bread and butter days are what I'm looking at.

Cheers Groundy, I'd like to speak to a shaper but I've kinda left it too late and got other things on my mind atm. I'm just worried that 50+ litres is a boat, but my main priority is to get waves. Turns are secondary sadly.

Ps- I'm not a total cripple. I'm reasonably fit, just struggled last winter with all my kit aod a couple of really good days when I should have been all over it left me really disappointed, hence pulling the trigger and going fat and wide.

Fark- I'm so confused ha ha!

AlfredWallace, 1656828858

[quote=zenagain]Cheers guys. I'm not sure about test driving cause I'm really pressed for time and tbh I'm returning home at not the happiest of times (my mum is very ill) so my focus is family first.

I've just been poking around online and the Hypto kinda stands out with the low rocker, lotta foam forward and pulled in tail. I've been kinda transitioning organically in the last few years from HPSB's to more hybridy shapes. I'm cognizant of the width and chunky rails of the big Hypto but the surf I surf in here is kinda reminiscent of east coast oz. Also, I do have a good step-up if the waves get big and good, but my bread and butter days are what I'm looking at.

Cheers Groundy, I'd like to speak to a shaper but I've kinda left it too late and got other things on my mind atm. I'm just worried that 50+ litres is a boat, but my main priority is to get waves. Turns are secondary sadly.

Ps- I'm not a total cripple. I'm reasonably fit, just struggled last winter with all my kit aod a couple of really good days when I should have been all over it left me really disappointed, hence pulling the trigger and going fat and wide.

Fark- I'm so confused ha ha![/quote]

Zen. Surfing aside, hope your mother is going to be fine. We all hope it works out positive for you and her.

frog, 1656829791

Watched a guy i know on a longer crypto. He was catching a lot of waves and had good speed. Sort of doing straight line surfing but to me that is often a choice - or an unintentional habit.

If the basics are right - volume and length - most modern boards can be made to work and surf loose if you want. Each will have its strengths and weaknesses and most importantly their sweet spots.

Sooooo many people surf further forward than their board's sweet spot and rarely carve. This can be out of habit or they blame the board.

My current board can surf 2 ft longer than it is if my feet are not placed right. But still surprises me with its looseness if my feet are back further. Ideally, I would like its nose pulled in a bit to fit the waves curves(one of those round nose models) but just live with it and mostly surf around the issue.

In short, I am sure the Crypto can do the job if you take time to understand it.

blackers, 1656831686

Best wishes to you and your mum Zen hope it turns out okay.

blackers, 1656831686

Best wishes to you and your mum Zen hope it turns out okay.

groundswell, 1656835120

+1

seaslug, 1656844220

Feeling for you Zen, best wishes to you and your mum

zenagain, 1656845347

Cheers guys.

I'll make it work. Just gotta define the subtleties and let the waves do their thing.

blackers, 1657268756

Have you looked at a DHD Black Diamond Zen?

zenagain, 1657268877

Funny you should mention that Blackers- it's either that or the Hypto. I was gonna put it out there and ask if anyone was familiar with one.

freeride76, 1657269705

I've felt up a few Zen.

Like the Hypto they get very, very bulky in the rail as they volume up.

blackers, 1657270114

Was worried that was the case, maybe a “high(er) performance “ mid length together the glide you were after without the flab. Got my Cosmic Twin delivered today. Hippy daze!

udo, 1657270161

6'9 @44 litres
https://au.surfindustries.com/products/7s-superfish-4-surfboard?variant=35012158685343

icandig, 1657272035

Just to confuse you a little more Zen - along the same lines of a Black Diamond, but a squash tail. JS Monsta Box Easyrider. Still has lowish rails. Foam a bit forward, big sweet spot - can step forward for glide, step back for turns. OK for duckdiving. I'm 58 and 93kgs - 186 cm been wearing a 4 mm steamer. Mine is 6'6" x 21.5" x 3".

https://www.jsindustries.com/surfboards/the-vault/monsta-box-2020-squash-tail-easy-rider

Only surfed in small waves so far. Pretty easy to catch waves and feels positive in most situations. (Surf Coast - and once in the pool).

Island Bay, 1657275357

And more confusion, Zen.
https://pyzelsurf.com.au/products/pyzalien2xl

udo, 1657276679

Send the Sarong King around to pick this up for you Zen..its on the Goldy seller will take $150
for it....perfect cheap fill in untill you know what you want......
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1173004879908670?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Aadaafcd1-568d-49fd-af1a-f5749944bf27
metabo oyagi..will dig the performance of this Craft

lostdoggy, 1657277452

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/727628785237307/

udo, 1657281113

Steve Del Rossa makes a nice board and understands what Bigger Gents need.
https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/currumbin/surfing/6-4-x-21-3-4-x-2-7-8-channel-surfboard/1296462730

zenagain, 1657314468

Geez Udo, you have an amazing memory.

Cheers gents. I reckon the Hypto cause ones available right now and I guess if I don't like it I can sell it here cause of the brand recognition.

I think I'll be right though- winter not far off and I'm gonna need every bit of those litres.

tlearyus, 1660095532

Just wanted to say thanks to Frog and others for all your great tips and support to help get me over my surfing problems. I am happy to report that I am back catching good waves on a regular basis now.

The really big factors were losing 7kg (93kg now was 100kg), doing lots of pop-up training exercises and stopped surfing so many different boards, and now mostly just surf one board my 8'6 Carl Schaper Butterknife which is a fantastic light weight, performance Mal.

I also changed my attitude and now chat more and have a laugh with others, and stopped getting caught up with my failures, and not getting waves. I was putting myself under so much pressure and every time I failed it really had serious negative effects next time I tried.

Can't wait to lose a few more kg's now and develop my surfing even more now.

So thanks everyone, your support and suggestions really made a huge difference.

Mahalo.

Solitude, 1660104860

Well done mate. Epic to hear.

seeds, 1660105919

That’s great. I’d assume you are having fun again.
As Julius Caesar once said
“Keep it simple, Stupid.”

Island Bay, 1660107941

Good on ya.

blackers, 1660109390

+1. Great news.

zenagain, 1660131419

Good one mate. Hope many more coming your way.

tlearyus, 1660365961

Cheers everyone, now I can't wait for the next decent swell.

udo, 1696306629

Part of Episode #479 ~ Full Episode Worth Watching.
Playback @1:25
https://youtu.be/BiWEtnNVzQo?si=nyfOdJBjzpDQK2Yl

simba, 1696320809

https://www.rogerhindssurfboards.com/shortboards/#the-master

Also Nev did a fish a few years ago that from memory was 24 inches wide.......guy loved it

udo, 1696321299

Twas 27 inches wide.

udo, 1696322163

6'6 x 27 x 4 @ 78 litres

blackers, 1696331362

[quote=udo]6'6 x 27 x 4 @ 78 litres[/quote]
Wow, some meat in that.