Submitted by Blowin on Wed, 07/30/2014 - 08:07
The wave of the day does it for me big time. Nice work Steen Barnes , Shaun Anderson and Swellnet.
In one photo you've encompassed everything nice about surfing. If I was a wanker I'd say that it was perfect except for the fact he is in a wetsuit. Which it is , it's perfect .....except for the fact he's in a wetsuit.
This photo made me happy.
Keeping it loose.
If your back isn't touching the wave is it still a layback?
Or is it the reclining equivalent of the cheater five?
Serious questions to ponder...
Stu a cheater layback would be a clay back, but I'm calling it a lean back ..... as in lean back and enjoy the view!
The old Layback bazza.
Very cool indeed.
When was the last time a WSL surfer did one of those in a heat?
To even begin Stu's ponder I had to reach for the googtionary for a reminder of what a 'cheater five' actually is:
A form of hang five move, but where the surfer keeps themself and their weight well back from the front of the board and just reaches out with one leg to get five toes over the nose (as opposed to standing properly at the front).
Technically speaking I think "the reclining equivalent of the cheater five" is spot on.
Using the description above you could say: the surfer keeps themself and their weight near the back of the board and just reaches back with one hand to get five fingers as far back as possible (but making sure his back doesn't touch the wave)
In the spirit of simplicity I FWIW would like to suggest this move be called the
Reverse Cheater Five (Layback).
It's the Layback you have without laying back.
Reverse cheater five
In full effect
I dig laybacks. Best feeling ;-)
Great stuff Stu. This week?
Surfings coolest move
Nah, while ago now, Laurie.
Is that the 7’6” you’re styling on ?
Thats some Frankenstein shit in todays pic.
What's the move called when one lays on the surfboard on one's back with head towards the nose?
Trying to post a picture of said move but text box won't allow it, anyway, it's the opening move in this film clip -now this is a "layback": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DaZowZ9_Pg0
Boogs VandePolder. Whenever I watch Litmus I think what the hell happened to him. Still alive and well, by the look of things.
Yeah, Boogs got a bit of play around that time, Jon Frank followed him and Rusty Moran to Hawaii, he scored a Surfer mag cover, featured in Waves mag often, few movie appearances, but the only thing that changed after the spotlight moved on was that less people saw what he was doing. He still chased waves and stormed every big swell in Cronulla, though he's now doing it with his son Kalani in tow.
And here's Kalani at G'Land.
Does Boogs have any sponsors ?
Boogs is sponsored by Mary, in the shadow of Captain Goodvibes
To be a mellow goofy with half a ball in your bag, wintering in the desert is to be a boar up to his hocks in fecal matter as adoring sows vie for your attention.
You make that sound very attractive, Blowin :-)
How about for an old, slow regularfoot?
Old surfers never die , they just get caught behind life’s section.
There's still a pulse, thankfully.
That’s all you need. The rest will look after itself.
Todays shot (July 15) great pic and beautiful pipe.
Imagine that view from the inside.
Watashi wa metabo oyagi desu.
Timeless shot, perfect wave and rider positioning and it's a left.
Looks like it was from a couple of Tuesdays ago...perfect.
Pinched your clip, ApeAnon, nice.