Stacks of south swell for the foreseeable future; dynamic next week too

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

Sydney, Hunter and Illawarra Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 18th April)

Best Days: Most days will have good waves, though Thursday will see the largest surf, Saturday the smallest.

Recap: Tuesday saw strong  building S’ly swells though early light SW winds gave way to developing onshores throughout the day. Wave heights reached 4-6ft across south facing beaches into the afternoon, and have eased slowly today with much better conditions under a light variable wind regime.

Today’s Forecaster Notes are brought to you by Rip Curl

This week (Mar 17th - 20th)

Our current S’ly swell will continue to ease into Thursday, but a new long period S’ly swell will push up through the morning, generated by a polar low south of Tasmania earlier this week.

This is expected to kick south facing beaches back up into the 4-6ft range though the bigger waves will be much less consistent than what we have seen over the last 36 hours, owing to a more distant swell source. 

I’m also expecting the swell periods to draw out a little more - closer to 15 seconds - and this should amplify surf size at offshore bombies, and across the Hunter, somewhere around 8ft or more at times (though they’ll be quite inconsistent). 

Away from south facing beaches, expect much smaller surf. Conditions should be clean for most of the day with mainly light variable winds early on, tending light to moderate N’ly, probably not enough to cause any major problems. 

Thursday’s south swell will likely reach a peak around the middle of the day and taper off into the afternoon, before easing more rapidly through Friday. South facing breaches may see some early 3-4ft sets but it’ll be half the size by the afternoon, and other beaches will be even smaller (the Hunter should pick up some bigger waves though). 

A weak trough should keep light variable winds across the region though we may see a moderate southerly creep into a few places at times. Overall, very worthwhile for a surf at any time of the day. 

This weekend (Mar 21st - 22nd)

Smaller southerly swells are expected into Saturday as this event fades out, though conditions should be workable with light winds under the influence of the trough, possibly onshore at times but without any strength. South facing beaches won’t see much more than 2ft sets (bigger through the Hunter) and it’ll be smaller elsewhere. 

Sunday has a renewal of S’ly swell from a fresh polar low/front developing well SW of New Zealand on Thursday and Friday. It’s a broad system but poorly aligned within our swell window, however I do like the longevity of the fetch in the Southern Ocean and as a result I think we’ll see a broad spread of S’ly tending S/SE swell through Sunday that should deliver 3ft, maybe 3-4ft sets at south facing beaches, bigger across the Hunter though much smaller at most beaches that don’t have favourable southerly exposure. 

Again, there’s a risk of an onshore breeze under Sunday’s troughy pattern but I don’t think it’ll amount to much. So, expect relatively good surfing conditions.

Next week (Mat 23rd onwards) 

Easing southerly swells are expected on Monday with continuing light winds. 

The long range outlook remains favourable, with Monday’s prediction for an unstable troughy pattern across the eastern Tasman Sea still on track. In fact there’s some pretty crazy model guidance for next weekend (15-18ft E’ly swell?), though this will no doubt be pulled back considerably in future model updates. 

For now, we can expect an extended period of activity from our mid range eastern swell window, starting off with some NE swell around the middle of the week, tending E’ly then SE as a trough evolves into some kind of Tasman Low through the second half of the week, likely some some dicey wind too.

It’s still a long time away though so don’t make an early travel plans.  

Comments

lancemorgan_'s picture
lancemorgan_'s picture
lancemorgan_ Wednesday, 18 Apr 2018 at 7:07pm

I’ve had a look on all the wams and can’t see any 15ft East swells for next weekend. Is this hypothetical at this stage?

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Wednesday, 18 Apr 2018 at 7:55pm

It's showing on the wave models (see 'surf forecast' tab) but not the WAMs, which is no surprise as there's often a short delay. I wouldn't get too excited, at 10 days away it's still in fantasy land, and anyway, it's forecast to arrive with 25kt onshores.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 19 Apr 2018 at 8:05am

Bummer.. swell is there but right at the bottom end of expectations. Argh! 

oiley's picture
oiley's picture
oiley Thursday, 19 Apr 2018 at 9:32am

I've booked my flights

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 19 Apr 2018 at 11:47am

Southerly groundswell kicked strongly mid-morning, some 4-5ft cleanups at Freshy so would expect a couple of 6ft'ers at Curly. Lulled a bit in the end, but stronger than early morning.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 19 Apr 2018 at 3:14pm

Nice to hear surf size finally came in within forecast specs. Buoy data shows swell periods drawing out to almost 16 seconds around 9am, which correlates strongly with your obs Craig.
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chook's picture
chook's picture
chook Thursday, 19 Apr 2018 at 4:40pm

16 seconds? Uh-oh. I just strapped the fish on the roof racks. I need to repack.

sharklasers1's picture
sharklasers1's picture
sharklasers1 Thursday, 19 Apr 2018 at 9:16pm

Overestimated on the south coast. Didn't push 3ft at magnets..

Where-is-albo's picture
Where-is-albo's picture
Where-is-albo Thursday, 19 Apr 2018 at 10:32pm

It was solid 6ft with a few bigger ones down south. Started to drop off through the afternoon.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 20 Apr 2018 at 6:56am

Sounds Iike yet another flukey south swell that favoured some locations but not others.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 20 Apr 2018 at 7:37am

And even across Sydney this morning. Darryl our Cronulla reporter is only seeing 2ft+ surf, but Curly and Freshy offered good 3ft sets when I checked this AM.

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Friday, 20 Apr 2018 at 10:25am

What about a return to surf reporting 101? Conditions, not locations.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 20 Apr 2018 at 11:13am

Locations aren't mentioned in the reports, well besides Manly :)

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Friday, 20 Apr 2018 at 11:56am

........Cronulla, Freshwater and Curl Curl in this morning's northern beaches. No real problem today but people do take offence if they think the report has concentrated the crowd.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 20 Apr 2018 at 12:02pm

In the notes comment section here yes, not in the report though. Too late in any case as the wind killed it by mid-morning.

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Friday, 20 Apr 2018 at 12:43pm

The tide got it in the end, the wind was still OK at 10. I copped a serve for the mention from one of the local faces. He made a pretty good case so I passed it on in my usual unsubtle manner.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 20 Apr 2018 at 12:54pm

Cheers, wow some people are paranoid. It is the beaches and school holidays, though as I've said there has been no mention of names in the reports, just a couple dropped here. See you Sunday!

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Friday, 20 Apr 2018 at 4:03pm

I'm sure you have it all under control but let me know if you need a hand on the day.

Halfscousehalfcockneyfullaussie's picture
Halfscousehalfcockneyfullaussie's picture
Halfscousehalfc... Friday, 20 Apr 2018 at 11:04am

Watching Foxtel weather channel, looks as if the Tasman low predicted is going to pretty strong by next Friday... Sydney might get some rain after all... as well as some huge easterly swell