Great weekend of waves; dynamic options next week

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 5th October)

Best Days: Sat: fun peaky waves at most coasts. Sun: best at the points as winds trend more S'ly. Mon: back to light winds and fun though easing E'ly swells. Later Wed/Thurs onwards: solid swells expected for the second half of the week, though windy at times and likely much smaller in SE Qld. 

Recap: Northerly winds created issues throughout Thursday though early morning saw isolated regions of NW winds for a few hours, allowing for some peaky beach breaks. A trough pushed across the region today, creating light variable winds in many locations, though northerlies persisted about much of SE Qld. Interestingly, winds swung light S’ly through SW across the Tweed and southern Gold Coast this afternoon (though the Seaway remained NE), allowing the southern points to produce some fun waves for the last few hours of the day - see surfcam snaps below from Snapper Rocks, comparing 1pm and then 5:30pm. Wave heights remained around 3ft out of the east both days, originating from the trough in the north-eastern Tasman Sea earlier this week. Some small long period S’ly swell was also evident in northern NSW early Thursday, building into the afternoon and holding today, though it was very inconsistent at times. Strong southerly winds nosed into the Mid North Coast around lunchtime and has built short range energy in this region this afternoon. 

Snapper Rocks this afternoon, before (N’ly) and after (S’ly)

This weekend (Oct 6 - 7)

Today’s Forecaster Notes are brought to you by Rip Curl

Looks like a fun weekend of waves in many regions, with inconsistent E’ly swells expected to hold both days around the 3ft mark at open beaches. There’ll be long breaks between the sets, but it’ll be nicely lined up when they come through.

A slight pulse is likely through Saturday afternoon and into Sunday morning, up to 3-4ft though no change is expected in the frequency department - it’ll be very inconsistent at times. Expect smaller surf running down the points, becoming much smaller across the inner sections. 

Surface conditions look good both days north from Byron under the influence of a troughy pattern, that’ll deliver variable conditions on Saturday then a moderate SW tending S’ly breeze through Sunday, ideal for the outer points. 

South from Byron, we’ll be at risk of SW tending S’ly winds both days. Most of Saturday looks OK south to about Coffs Harbour, but breezey conditions will persist across much of the Mid North Coast, likely from the SW though with a period of S’lies through the afternoon. Overnight and into Sunday morning, southerly winds will encroach a little further up the coast - to about Ballina - but then dissipate into the afternoon. As such southern ends will be best off this weekend.

Southern parts of the Mid North Coast are also likely to see continuing SE swell from today’s synoptic pattern, though the primary fetch will ease slowly through Saturday, leading to a gradual easing in size. The Lower Mid North Coast should still pick up 4-6ft sets early Saturday (easing during the day and into Suynday) but as you track north from Port Macquarie, surf size will drop off and the SE swell probably won’t be noticeable (above the pre-existing E’ly swell) north from Coffs Harbour. 

Next week (Oct 8 onwards)

Light variable winds and easing swells are expected on Monday, ahead of a freshening northerly flow into Tuesday that’ll create problems that afternoon across most coasts, holding into Wednesday morning. Aim for the mornings at the wide open beaches for the best surf. 

The second half of the week looks very dynamic, with an upper trough approaching from the west, combining with an intense polar outbreak to generate either a deep Tasman Low or a possible East Coast Low some time from around Wednesday onwards (see chart below). 

The resulting surf outlook for our region is not clear, because of the divergence in model guidance - we’ll certainly see solid swells from the south across Northern NSW from later Wednesday or Thursday onwards, though there could be a wide variation in size (i.e. much smaller across SE Qld) depending on where and how this low is positioned. There's certainly the potential for a very large swell event across the East Coast, though if you had to hedge your bets, it's much more likely in Southern NSW than Northern NSW. 

In any case, there’ll also be a lot of wind associated with this synoptic pattern and it’s expected to be slow moving, occupying our region through until the weekend, so there won’t be any shortage of swell for some time - though quality could be an issue at exposed spots. 

Have a great weekend, see you Monday!

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 6 Oct 2018 at 6:13am

For those of you wondering where Cliff's wonderful comments from last night have gone, I've transferred them over to a more appropriate thread (the "Walled up and on the rise" article). Let's keep Forecaster Notes comments on topic please.

https://www.swellnet.com/news/swellnet-dispatch/2018/06/26/walled-and-ri...

Meanwhile, it ain't looking too shabby this morning!

redmondo's picture
redmondo's picture
redmondo Saturday, 6 Oct 2018 at 9:59am

Some days you are at one with the universe catching the best waves, flowing smoothly through the critical sections. I got some good ones but missed a few beauties. So I threw out my (orange) hi vis shirts and vest. No longer will I be a Rajneesh extremest it was effecting my chi. It is good to get some hollow ones though. Thanks Ben. I will find other excuses if I don't get a screamer soon.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 6 Oct 2018 at 11:25am

Lovely bowl at Burleigh this morning.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Saturday, 6 Oct 2018 at 11:39am

It shows how quickly the memory is capable of wallpapering over reality.

I was talking to a mate from West Coast SA a few days ago who is visiting Queensland. He said he was at Burleigh and I remarked that I hadn’t visited for years , but what a beautiful spot it was . I said that if you just forgot about the crowds and enjoyed the place for what it was he’d see it was amazing.

The phone was quiet for a few seconds before he replied with a typical....” yeah, nah”

He must have thought about it because then he was more assertive “ No , fuck this place “ or words to that effect.

Check the above photo.

He was spot on.

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Saturday, 6 Oct 2018 at 1:24pm

Yeah I showed grom that pic before digesting your comment, and his response was "I mean, it's got a good peak, but..."

johnnygreebs's picture
johnnygreebs's picture
johnnygreebs Saturday, 6 Oct 2018 at 3:35pm

Mate that crowd was mellow as it can be out Burleigh. Both in density & unusual lack of local heavy hitters. I got 3 or 4 200m rides without even a hint of a drop in. For a Saturday in school holidays it was amazing.

johnnygreebs's picture
johnnygreebs's picture
johnnygreebs Saturday, 6 Oct 2018 at 3:37pm

Also that inside section crowd is generally made up of kooks, learners & driftwood.

Luke02's picture
Luke02's picture
Luke02 Saturday, 6 Oct 2018 at 1:06pm

Wow, I don't mind surfing crowded Burleigh when it's consistent and good size but that is next level!

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Sunday, 7 Oct 2018 at 10:46am

Just did a quick scan of the cams.
Burleigh, currumbin, greenmount, byron.

Crowds absolutely hideous at all of them.
Burleigh still like the pic above and that's probably the least crowded of them.

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg Sunday, 7 Oct 2018 at 10:59am

What a beautiful weekend of waves. Almost felt like the Autumn we never had.

redmondo's picture
redmondo's picture
redmondo Sunday, 7 Oct 2018 at 8:30pm

It is a pitty the harsh sun won't allow me to surf all day and my funds won't allow me to party all night. I have seen my friend at a Duke coffee shop watching the local surf on his phone, a two minute walk away from the beach!

redmondo's picture
redmondo's picture
redmondo Monday, 8 Oct 2018 at 2:39pm

It seemed a little bit gnarly out there on the low tide or maybe growing pansies in the vegi patch is having an adverse effect on me. Had some great surfsThanks to all.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 8 Oct 2018 at 9:15am

Totally crg, full autumn vibes, pumping beachies and empty away from the more popular breaks.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 8 Oct 2018 at 9:34am

I'm pretty knackered this morning after a couple of surfs over the weekend - best option was Saturday on the beachies where there were no crowds whatsoever. Some pretty chunky 3-4ft sets on offer.