Stacks of swell, but y'gotta work the wind

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 1st December)

Best Days: Sun: window of good winds possible across the Mid North Coast, more likely in the lunch/arvo period. Mon: tricky winds but looking OK in the Far North and maybe SE Qld regions. Tues/Wed/Thurs: punchy swell combo with generally good winds. 

Recap: Freshening NE winds have created bumpy conditions over the last few days, though SE Qld hasn’t seen as much wind strength so conditions have been workable (10-15kts, compared to 15-20kts south from Byron). Wave heights have slowly increased from the east with sets now around 3ft+ at some exposed locations. 

Today’s Forecaster Notes are brought to you by Rip Curl. 

This weekend (Dec 2nd - 3rd)

No real changes to the weekend forecast - we’ll see steady E’ly swells both days (3ft+ across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW, slightly smaller to the south), but freshening N/NE winds will ruin conditions at many beaches. 

The local fetch will generate some additional short range NE swell for all coasts - just a foot or so in the north, but a couple of feet or more across the Mid North Coast. 

The Mid North Coast will see the most strength in the local wind, with potentially 25-30kts at times both days - perhaps backing off mid-late morning Sunday onwards, as a trough crosses the Southern NSW coast. In fact variable winds are now likely across the Lower Mid North Coast, and a S’ly change will probably nose in around dinnertime.

If you plan on capitalising on these better winds across the Mid North Coast on Sunday, head as far south as you can - which will increase your chances of scoring the best conditions (Seal Rocks through Port Mac the pick). It’ll take a few hours for the northerly wobble to subside though; fortunately there’ll be a decent undercurrent of E’ly swell even as the NE wind swell eases back. 

Even though the weekend’s conditions will be less gusty across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW coasts, any strength of the devil wind (N/NE) will cause problems across most beaches, and there’s barely a handful of locations offering shelter from this direction. So keep your expectations low both days. 

Next week (Dec 4th onwards)

Jeez, next week is still looking really dynamic. 

A Tasman Low will form east of Tasmania on Sunday, driving a southerly change across the NSW coast. It’s expected to stall across parts of the Northern Rivers on Monday, with S/SE winds to its south (i.e. Seal Rocks through Port Mac and Coffs, to maybe Yamba), variable winds in Far Northern NSW and then possibly a light lingering N/NE flow from somewhere in Far Northern NSW thru’ SE Qld. 

So, it’s hard to quantify the surf outlook for Monday because of the variable conditions. Most coasts have some kind of threat of poor surface conditions, but by the same token, isolated patches of favourable winds can’t be discounted. 

As for swell, there’ll still be a healthy undercurrent of E’ly swell in the 3ft+ range, some small NE swell and a mid range S’ly swell from Sunday’s Tasman Low. Plus some short range SE energy from the local fetch developing overnight Sunday. 

Tuesday is where it gets really funky. 

The lingering North Coast surface trough will receive a moisture injection from the tropics, and a southward shift plus an intensification will strengthen NE winds through our immediate swell window. However, it looks like this will be mainly aimed south of our region, spending only a brief time in our swell window. 

However, there’s also a positive aspect to this - winds will swing NW as the trough draws southward, and this will occur while the NE fetch is still off our coast. This should deliver regions of very good beachbreaks.

So, I am hoping that we see a window on Tuesday where winds veer offshore and the NE swell reaches a peak (tying in with 3ft of underlying trade swell, and some leftover SE and S’ly swell too). The Mid North Coast is on target for (1) the most size from this NE swell, and (2) a better chance fort the offshores to develop - unfortunately, SE Qld will remain under a weak pressure gradient and could see a light lingering N’ly all day. 

At this stage, we’re looking at a peak around 3-5ft across the Mid North Coast, with SE Qld seeing the least amount of size, probably 3-4ft (and a little more E in the swell direction). 

This NE thru' E/NE swell will then ease steadily through Wednesday with generally light winds. Another day worth flagging in the diary for some decent peaky beachies. 

But! It won’t all be over then…. 

This forecast period (Mon thru’ Wed) will predominantly see swells generated in the Tasman Sea. Whilst this is all going on, other parts of our swell window will remain active:

1. The trough responsible for the Mon S’ly swell will linger across the Southern Tasman Sea, generating a small S/SE swell for Northern NSW through the middle of the week.
2. A pair of E’ly dips north of New Zealand will for a broad E’ly fetch, and will generate some very useful E/NE swell for the entire East Coast, due to hold out from Wed thru’ Thurs, maybe Fri around 3-4ft+. 
3. The Tues/Wed deepening trough will probably evolve into a new Tasman Low east of Bass Strait on Wed/Thurs, generating a fresh S’ly swell for Thurs/Fri across Northern NSW (size as yet unsure).
4. A small TC is possible around the Solomons mid-late next week, though at this stage it’s unlikely to be a swell producer.

So, did ya get all of that?

Short version: stacks of swell potential for the long term, from every angle of our swell window. 


Have a great weekend! See you Monday. 

Comments

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Friday, 1 Dec 2017 at 5:06pm

hey Ben. probably a stupid question, but why is it that NE swells often produce far better beachies than SE swells. i thought it might be to do with the swell angle against the coast but ne swells crank in nsw and qld from my experience.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Friday, 1 Dec 2017 at 6:09pm

I'm gonna hazard a guess that it's because they're usually peakier, therefore it doesn't matter if the banks are straight.

bananaman's picture
bananaman's picture
bananaman Friday, 1 Dec 2017 at 10:23pm

I might suggest north /east swells are hitting more fresh and interesting sand build ups , being exposed to more size and consistency from the south most spots are gutted out or compacted into hard straight lines ? Ps onshore is the new offshore looking forward to this event ! Yew

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Friday, 1 Dec 2017 at 5:16pm

Nice work , Ben.

wellymon's picture
wellymon's picture
wellymon Friday, 1 Dec 2017 at 8:52pm

Gold;)

Thought I might pop my ugly head in here, its been a long time......

How are you Blowin you still in Indo ways????????

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Friday, 1 Dec 2017 at 10:20pm

We'll you legend !

How you been cobber ?

On the East coast for a few more weeks then Indo it is mate.

You been getting any waves ? Still on the goldy ?

Any encounters with the yowie ?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 1 Dec 2017 at 6:36pm

NE swells are not that good on the beachies here.

Best is a combo of S or SSE swell and E swell.

NE swells tend to be weak and shapeless on this coast.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Saturday, 2 Dec 2017 at 4:40pm

Well I could say exactly where, when re wed/thurs east swell... But people will lose their shit bahahahaha.... Lets just say if you believe in fairies, or like looooong paddles, or obscure coffee rock set ups, and get up SUPER early, you'll do ok...
The size of the swell should spread the crowd out too. My whole home coast might get good.... But it's get to bed by 9pm, and up before sunrise.

curly2alex's picture
curly2alex's picture
curly2alex Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 9:25am

6/10 for SC this morning.
Are we setting up for the boy who cried wolf .
It was/is 1-2 foot mush.
Had a nice cup of coffee though.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 10:32am

I've surfed a lot of 1-2ft mush in my time, and the Sunny Coast surfcams look a lot better than anything like that (look 2-3ft-ish to me, with fun inside shories?). The 6/10 rating is a little ambitious - perhaps the unexpected local offshore tipped the froth factor into mild overdrive. 

Seems to have been quite a few recent cases where there were major size/quality discrepencies across the breadth of the SC. Which end are you at mate?

Boogie_luv's picture
Boogie_luv's picture
Boogie_luv Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 11:04am

Have you ever considered splitting the reporting into two different regions, a south and north end?
I do however like it when Mark underscores a pumping session, that’s a big win in my books!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 11:24am

We did that years ago for both the Gold and Sunshine Coast (we had Noosa and Maroochydore, and Surfers and Cooly).

But ultimately it's not really worth the effort (and expense) - by and large, conditions are usually the same. 

Boogie_luv's picture
Boogie_luv's picture
Boogie_luv Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 11:44am

I don’t recall the split reporting, how long did you trial it for? The two regions definitely perform differently under certain swells.

Personally, I never use the rating to decide to surf or not, but do enjoy comparing scores after a session.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 12:28pm

Can’t remember the precise year offhand. First started with one intermittent Sunny Coast surf reporter late 2003 or 2004, expanded to two probably around 2006-ish (incidentally, Phil Jarratt was our Noosa reporter for a while). Lasted at least a few years I reckon, maybe until 2010 or 2011? But then scaled back to one when we went through one of our upgrades. Wasn’t worth the cost and it split the surf report web traffic for the region, which we didn’t think was beneficial.

Also went through the same process on the Gold Coast, and also the Northern Beaches.

curly2alex's picture
curly2alex's picture
curly2alex Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 11:05am

Hi
Stuck in the middle at m’dore.
It’s all subjective.
I’d have given it a 3 / 10 - you’d have to be very keen, I didn’t bother. But will ride down and check it again and again...

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 12:24pm

Was getting close to 6/10 up the north end of the coast. Considering we've had days and days of onshore. Well maybe not 6 out of 10, but a pretty good session 2-3 ft some little tubes peaky shories etc

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 12:29pm

How would you assess the surfcam grab I posted above? Looks super fun to me.

curly2alex's picture
curly2alex's picture
curly2alex Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 1:47pm

1-2 foot gutless, inside bank and crowded for what it is.
3/10 at best.
...and I’m trying to be positive :)

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 1:48pm

Haha

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 12:49pm

This morning was very , very fun.

Still offshore in the right places.

Too rooted to paddle.

Bliss.

bpow's picture
bpow's picture
bpow Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 3:09pm

Yep a few fun ones to be had this morning. Looking forward to more. Long range fantasy charts looking interesting. Will keep you busy Ben.

Umunga's picture
Umunga's picture
Umunga Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 10:31pm

SC south end 3. / 10 tops 1-2 +

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 4 Dec 2017 at 9:10am

These high high tides and negative low tides are really making it hard work to find something rideable.

Couldn’t find anything surfable on the Tweed yesterday afternoon despite light winds and clean faces. 

This morning looks like quite an effort on the high tide too, a few stories around but nothing too special.

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Monday, 4 Dec 2017 at 9:35am

The stories were legendary, great stories,inside stories,stories that closed out and some that went forever. But as always,reality never lived up to the stories...

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Monday, 4 Dec 2017 at 11:37am

3 metre dolphin washed up yesterday.