Lots of swell sources for the North Coast

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Thursday 27th August)

Best DaysFri: strong S'ly groundswell easing across Northern NSW, with a small trade swell in SE Qld. Sat: new S'ly swell building across Northern NSW, with a small trade swell in SE Qld. Late Sun/Mon: strong S'ly swell in Northern NSW, may also see some fun waves in SE Qld. Tues thru' Thurs: plenty of SE swell. 

Recap: Small easterly swell has provided SE Qld with a few clean rideable waves in the last few days, whilst sideband SE swell from an East Coast low has generated good surf across northern NSW, biggest in the southern Mid North Coast region (closest to the swell source). Winds have been generally light and favourable. A new long period S’ly swell is showing strongly in Southern NSW today and should reach the Lower Mid North Coast this afternoon, and remaining coasts overnight.

Friday and this weekend (Aug 28 - 30)

The new southerly groundswell advancing across Southern NSW is producing some unreal waves. Most Sydney beaches are in the 3-5ft range and the Hunter region is seeing 5-6ft sets, so as a result I’ve slightly upgraded wave height estimates from this system on Friday to 3-5ft at south facing beaches in Northern NSW. 

Southern regions (south of Coffs) will see an overnight peak in size on Friday and an all-day easing trend, where as the Far North should see the peak of this swell hold into the afternoon. Locations not open to the south will be much smaller, and unfortunately this swell won’t do a lot north of the border; it’ll probably just mix in nicely with the small, pre-existing E’ly swell around 1-2ft+. However, if you can get yourself to an exposed south facing beach there should be occasional 3ft+ bombs across the Gold and Sunny Coasts.

Friday’s conditions look pretty good with mainly light variable winds across most regions. However the afternoons will be susceptible to moderate onshore flows due to this troughy, unstable pattern we’re in the midst of.

As for the weekend, we’re looking at similar winds - variable due to a trough pattern, with a southerly flow pushing into the Mid North region on Sunday, linked in with a broad, slow moving low pressure system in the Southern Tasman Sea. 

The weekend’s surf will originate from a couple of sources. We’ve got more E’ly trade swell on the cards, originating from distant activity way out NE of New Zealand earlier this week, but I can’t see there being much more than occasional 1-2ft+ waves at most open beaches. 

Otherwise, Saturday has a small building S’ly swell for exposed south facing beaches in Northern NSW, originating from a cut-off low that’s expected to form off the Southern NSW coast on Friday. It’ll only last a short time inside our swell window, and will do most of its work inside the Hunter shadow, so wave heights won’t be large and will be restricted to the swell magnets. However, we should see occasional 3ft+ sets at swell magnets through Saturday (with the Far North seeing a delay on the arrival of this swell, until late morning or lunchtime). Otherwise, expect a small mix of swells at remaining beaches.

Saturday’s south swell will then ease slowly into Sunday morning - still providing good waves at exposed beaches under a variable morning breeze. The Lower Mid North Coast should see a late arrival of stronger new S’ly groundswell, originating from the parent S’ly fetch contained within this broad system, that’s expected to develop south of the cut-off low, later Friday. This should be worth a few bigger sets in the 4-5ft range but most locations will have to wait until Monday to see it push through.

Next week (Aug 31 onwards)

The new S’ly swell due late Sunday or Monday looks like being a tricky bugger to forecast for. The source of this swell - a new low pressure system developing well south of the Tasman Sea (technically the Southern Ocean) on Friday - is a very unusual pattern, which exaggerates the difficulty in estimating surf size because I can't recall seeing a fetch track in this direction, in this region before. So there's no precedence to work against.

Additionally, the models have been moving around a lot with this synoptic setup in recent runs (shunting the fetch inside, and then outside of the swell window). It's quite likely that they'll continue to move around for the next few days so let's leave things until tomorrow when there should be more confidence. However at this early stage 4-6ft sets at south facing beaches in Northern NSW seems a reasonably good ball park figure for Monday, and there should be very good waves across the semi-exposed points too. 

SE Qld is hard to estimate from this source too as we haven’t see these kinds of systems before. Ordinarily, a south swell usually means wave height potential is significantly reduced but I think this system may buck the trend, and we may see some fun peelers across the outer points on Monday in the 2-3ft range. 

Looking further ahead, and this system looks like it’ll remain slow moving throughout the Southern Tasman Sea for quite a few days, meaning it’ll be a source of swell for the rest of the week in varying capacities. At this stage there’s enough confidence to estimate - as a minimum - moderate SE swell holding from Tuesday through Wednesday and maybe even Thursday, although the first half of the week will certainly see the most size. 

Further ahead, and another low is expected to develop off the South Coast of NSW mid-late next week which (1) has potential for a solid short range south swell but (2) may also deliver northerly winds during the aforementioned mid-week SE swells. So, make the most of what you see early in the week!

I’ll update this forecast on Friday afternoon.

Comments

wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443 Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 4:56am

This has probably been asked, discussed before ... somewhere. But, what do you call the mid north coast vs north coast, etc? I figure the 'far north' is probably Byron North? Just asking, because I smell a road trip ... ;)

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 6:38am

I've always had the boundaries as Byron Bay (between Far North Coast and North Coast) and then Wooli (between North Coast Coast and Mid North Coast). 

The BOM have three regions: Macquarie (Seal Rocks to Smoky Point), Coffs (Smoky Point to Wooli) and Byron (Wooli to the border) but from a surf forecasting perspective there's a bigger difference north and south of Byron than splitting the Mid North Coast in half (as the BOM do), so I've elected to do things a little differently.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 7:18am

Small lonely peelers at the Superbank this morning (note the single wave set: that's one of the benefits of this cam, as it allows you to assess the swell period and wave groupiness).

no-eye-deer's picture
no-eye-deer's picture
no-eye-deer Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 8:06am

Not exactly lonely, hows the drop in!

ACB__'s picture
ACB__'s picture
ACB__ Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 9:24am

are they fishing boats?

I always found it heaps rude to fish near surfers due to bitey whiteys

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 10:47am

I assume they're just recreational fishermen. It's a public holiday in Qld today.

tomjoad's picture
tomjoad's picture
tomjoad Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 7:44am

Thanks Ben - always appreciate these notes.

wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443 Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 9:27am

Yes, there's potential alright!

Do the right click 'view image' thing and zoom in on that little peak. Yew!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 10:48am

Yep pumping along the Tweed this morning.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 10:51am

Oh yeah!!

saltman's picture
saltman's picture
saltman Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 11:05am

Yeah and being a public holiday on the GC there were stacks on it
Some long waits but was worth it
The energy seemed to wane substantially as the morning went on

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 11:20am

Not much of this south swell getting in across SE Qld, as expected.

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 11:35am

The long distance E swell increased slightly up here 2ft some very inconsistent 3ft single waves,unfortunate combo of wonk and poor sand caused angst.swell is weak as well,still there's waves.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 11:44am

Sure that's E'ly swell and not S'ly swell SM?

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 1:17pm

Not entirely sure didn't seem to be angling down the coast like the refracted sth swells that ocassionly get in up here do.There was a drift to the sth in the water.Direction seemed E to Me, very inconsistent with just the odd single bigger wave every 20 or 30 min.I was at a beach that picks up most Sth swell around here Nth Sunny Coast.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 1:21pm

Fair enough. I was expecting 1-2ft+ of inconsistent E'ly swell anyway, but there wasn't much appearing on the Goldy - all looked to be S swell there. But no reason why there aren't some occasional E'ly sets across the coast.

You should defintiely be seeing a few waves from the south though, it's pretty strong south of the border. 

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 1:21pm

Also going by the Mooloolabah bouy,looks like it's the long range East swell,Sth swells usually show up there as true SE direction.

50young's picture
50young's picture
50young Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 2:35pm

So Ben is Sunday morning looking like the better choice for the Goldy?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 2:37pm

I'll have a better idea later today - but in short, models are suggesting Sunday will have the most size out of the east, so yes.  

50young's picture
50young's picture
50young Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 2:38pm

Thanks :)

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 2:38pm

Plenty of tiny peelers across the Superbank. Still in good shape too.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 3:12pm

Just a quick heads up: SE Qld/Northern NSW forecast notes will be up late this evening. Normal programming should resume from Monday. Thanks for your patience everyone.

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal Friday, 28 Aug 2015 at 3:20pm

looking forward to your assessment of this potential solid south swell/light west wind combo forecast for Tuesday Ben! Already asked for the day off haha