Extended period of great waves ahead

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 23rd February)

Best Days: Pumping waves all week, although smaller than what we've seen in recent days. Good winds, mainly in the mornings. Fun weekend of beachbreaks ahead, and next week looks unreal too with a strong E'ly swell on the cards.

Recap: Epic run of waves in a few areas (mainly Coolangatta) but tricky winds associated with ex-TC Marcia delivered a wide range of options elsewhere (from terrible to pretty good). No shortage of size though with a combination of trade swell and reinvigorated SE swell from the reformed low that was ex-TC Marcia, with exposed beaches in the 6ft+ range at times through late Sunday and early Monday. Wave heights now appear to be dropping (with buoy data confirming the trend) although there’s no shortage of quality as per our Snapper surfcam (see below).

This week (Feb 24 - 27)  

With TC Marcia now weakening off the SE Qld coast, it feels like we can finally kick off the forecast week with a recalibration of the forecast models. 

Right now we’ve got an E/NE fetch off the coast that’s expected to swing slowly clockwise (i.e. E’ly then E/SE) overnight and through Tuesday as ex-TC Marcia continues to weaken and track north-east.

This should maintain anywhere between 3ft and occasionally 5ft at exposed parts of the SE Qld and Far Northern NSW coasts on Tuesday, with smaller surf at the semi-exposed points and along the Mid North Coast. Winds should remain moderate S/SE in most areas but periods of SW winds are possible early morning. South of about Ballina, winds are likely to be light and variable early morning, tending NE into the afternoon.

On Wednesday we’ll see this swell source slowly dry up but it’ll probably still hold in and around the 3ft+ range at most open beaches, with slightly smaller waves at the semi-exposed points (smaller surf south of Yamba though). The pressure gradient will continue to weaken so winds will be a little lighter but probably along the same pattern as Tuesday. South facing beaches in Northern NSW may also see a small S/SE swell arrive during the day (from a weak front expected to cross the southern NSW coast on Tuesday) but no great size is expected from this source. 

By Thursday we’ll be at the bottom of the swell cycle. By no means does this insinuate bad surf - most exposed beaches should still be pulling in peaky 2-3ft waves, and the semi-exposed points should still have plenty of fun small runners. Early light winds and afternoon sea breezes will ensure the morning has the best conditions.

Friday looks like we’ll finish the week with some fun waves, thanks to a new pulse of long range E'ly swell, generated by an impressive trough that developed well NE of New Zealand over the weekend. Core wind strengths were reasonably impressive however the system wasn’t positioned perfectly for all locations (aimed more favourably towards northern coasts than southern locales) and it’s now slowly sneaking inside the swell shadow of New Zealand too, which will cut off the energy supply. 

Regardless, we’re still looking at some very good waves arriving from this source on Friday morning and current indications are that we’ll see light variable winds for most of the day. The key difference between this swell and what we’ve seen over the last week will be the consistency: the large travel distance will create much longer breaks between sets (although, the lingering remnants of TC Marcia mid-week should maintain a small undercurrent of mid-range trade swell in the mix).

So, the two swell trains should combine to create a great day of waves on Friday; the mid-range trade swell should be worthy of 2-3ft surf, whilst the long range E’ly swell should provide inconsistent 3-4ft+ bombs at exposed beaches (running a little smaller along the semi-exposed points). Should be plenty of options across the entire coast, although we may see marginally smaller surf across the Mid North Coast (from both swell sources) and there’s a chance for a few bigger bombs on the Sunshine Coast (due to its better alignment for the long range groundswell).

This weekend (Feb 28 - Mar 1)

Friday’s long range E’ly groundswell is expected to ease slowly through the weekend

However, the trades south and southwest of New Caledonia are expected to restrengthen through Friday, and should provide a slow increase in mid-range swell over the weekend that’ll arrest the otherwise easing trend from the long range source. 

As such, we’re looking at early 3-4ft sets in SE Qld and Far Northern NSW on Saturday (a little smaller on the Mid North Coast), with a possible easing trend during the day before the mid-range swell rebuilds late afternoon and into Sunday into the 2-3ft+ range (again, a little smaller on the Mid North Coast). 

At this stage, local winds look best for the mornings with a weak pressure gradient providing light/variable patterns. Freshening sea breezes are expected in the afternoon, probably NE along the Mid North Coast, E’ly in far Northern NSW and E/SE across SE Qld. 

I’ll take a closer look at all of this in Wednesday’s notes; hopefully the models will strengthen the trades a little more for the end of this week, and correspondingly boost the weekend’s size potential. 

Next week (Mar 2 onwards)

Looking really good at this stage. The trades north of New Zealand are expected to fire up later this week and through the weekend (and beyond), generating another sustained E’ly groundswell that should start to appear around Monday and build strongly through the middle of next week, possibly holding through to next weekend

Current indications are for a 4-5ft+ from this source but there’s a chance we could see an upgrade (some of the models have the fetch retrograding to the coast, which could deliver a similar pattern as what we’ve seen over the last four or five days). I’ll update my thoughts on this in Wednesday’s notes. 

Comments

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 23 Feb 2015 at 9:54pm

Are the swell models adding the 9sec period tradewind swell and the 12sec period E'ly groundswell together on Friday? Cause I can't see 4ft+ from that fetch out to the E/NE of NZ currently? My calcs are more around the 2-3ft at best?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 23 Feb 2015 at 10:04pm

I think 4ft sets are quite possible Don. They'll be very inconsistent though.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Tuesday, 24 Feb 2015 at 7:31am

Thanks Ben. So in your WAMS where does the 9 sec period E'ly swell from Fri morning go when the 11 sec E'ly groundswell peaks Friday afternoon?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 24 Feb 2015 at 7:38am

Not sure Don (don't have the charts in front of me right now). However for long range forecasts - even short range - I still use manual techniques.. I'm not reading off the WAMS or raw model output.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Tuesday, 24 Feb 2015 at 9:17am

I also use manual techniques when the WAMS look a little odd to me. My manual numbers are telling me 2-3ft max from this fetch. And the lack of the 9s period swell showing up on the WAMS after that 11s period swell arrives on a Friday makes me think they might be double counting. But we shall see come Friday I suspect.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Tuesday, 24 Feb 2015 at 2:12pm

It appears the SN WAMS are now pushing back the arrival time of the peak of this swell on Friday as well as still potentially combining the two swells from what I'm looking at? My numbers still not showing anything above an inconsistent 2-3ft at best, and more so late Friday and into Sat now.

SD, be interested in your prediction from this fetch please?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 24 Feb 2015 at 2:22pm

From what I've been watching and observing, I think the swell should be there Friday morning and around a very inconsistent 3-4ft.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Tuesday, 24 Feb 2015 at 2:35pm

Thanks Craig. On a completely different unrelated question, do they run the Quiky Pro trials within the waiting period? ie trials can't start until 28th Feb?

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Tuesday, 24 Feb 2015 at 6:53pm

Sorry, donny.. been caught up in alot of family issues.... had a quick look at that fetch a few days ago. Posted this in one of the kirra vid' threads - "BTW, Apart from that trough out at 170w 26s, things aren't looking too good re' mid to long term......... I'd say make the most of the next few days........"

Just had a quick glance at some data; On the 22nd, midday, seemed to be 30 -35ish knots out around 170/34.... Probably ocean waves around 4m+... I'll be generous and call it 15 feet....
Frontrunners at 3 footish, dawn Friday, 10 to 11 seconds.....
4 foot plus may be pushing it....
So yeah, agree with size, Don, but pending on ocean wave size on the 22nd, arrival could still be friday early....

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 24 Feb 2015 at 5:59am

This is turning into one of the most sustained E'ly swell regimes for a helluva long time.

I last surfed a beachie Australia Day.

Since then it's been one long pointbreak extravaganza.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 27 Feb 2015 at 10:40am

How did you go Don?

Going on what was seen in Manly from this swell - very inconsistent 3ft+ sets - I would of expected easy 3-4ft waves at exposed spots around your region.

Here's a coupla snaps.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 27 Feb 2015 at 11:32am

Yeah there was size but I'm not convinced it was the 12 sec stuff. The bigger ones were more peaky akin to a more closer range swell IMO. Was def some longer lined swell but these tended to be more the smaller ones.

But yeah easy 3-4ft even bigger at south facing beaches (again makes me think the swell direction was also not from the E/SE longer range stuff.

Fecking local winds were all over the fecking shop this morning but. When's frcking autumn gonna kick in!!!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 27 Feb 2015 at 11:42am

Thanks Don - that's a good sign as the E'ly swell isn't really expected to peak until the afternoon. 

mick-free's picture
mick-free's picture
mick-free Friday, 27 Feb 2015 at 11:51am

two four footers came through the lineup North Steyne from 9:30 - 10:45 when I surfed it, both closeouts. 3 footers were more peaky if thats any help. Keep it rolling Huey

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Friday, 27 Feb 2015 at 1:30pm

Very healthy swell on the sunny coast this morning 2_4ft nice and clean though not every where handling the quality lines.