Kai Lenny: Champion to be, bridesmaid now

Craig Jarvis
Talking Heads

With just three days to go in the waiting period and a forecast that's heading towards the horizontal, it’s time for us to acknowledge a new Big Wave World Champion in Billy Kemper from Haiku, Hawaii.

With a superb season, including fourth place at the Puerto Escondido Challenge, second at both the Pe’ahi Challenge and the Nazaré Challenge, Kemper not only showed guts and determination, but consistency too. The combination will gift him the world title he's been wanting so badly.

It's been a good season for the Big Wave Tour (BWT), with three of the four events completed. That said, it's ironic that Mavericks - the event that was deemed the saving grace of the BWT - is the one that went missing.

Second place to Kemper is Hawaiian waterman extraordinaire Kai Lenny, and without wishing to detract from Kemper’s moment, Swellnet got into a conversation with Lenny to find out what he’s feeling now, just 2,500 points off the pace yet zero chance of Mavericks running.

Swellnet: So here we are at the end of the line. It's been a great year, of that there is no doubt, but how does it feel to be number two?
Kai Lenny: It feels terrible! To be so close to the number one spot is definitely a hard pill to swallow. But all it is now is fuel on an already hot fire!

Have you thought much about life as a Big Wave World Champion? How does it make you feel? 
I am an 8x World Champion in Stand Up Paddling - wave and racing - and the feeling is incredible. Hard work, dedication, and sacrifice are all worth it for that one moment when you stand on top of the podium. I don’t think it’s about beating others, but more about just knowing you did everything in the world to be the best you could be. That’s the most gratifying feeling, you know...

Lenny winning the Puerto Escondido Challenge and scoring an XXL Tube of the Year entry (Photo Lucano Hinkle)

alking about SUP disciplines, you have many other skills and talents in the water. How does big wave surfing stack up? Is it the one that takes precedence?
Yeah. When the day comes, and because they are so rare, I do drop everything to ride big waves. There is no specific way or particular board I like to ride big waves with, it can be on all types of board sports, it’s just about being amongst nature’s most awesome power. 

Mavericks is not going to happen, which is a disappointment.
It’s not looking very good at this point. I would have loved the chance to compete in firing conditions out there. That would be my opportunity to get back to the top spot! If not this winter, then next winter will be the one for sure at Mavericks. 

Kai Lenny drops into Mavs outside of competition (Photo Quirarte/WSL)

How would you describe the big wave year thus far?
This year overall, between the Atlantic and the Pacific, has been pretty decent. Not epic, although many spots did have 10/10 conditions. Pe’ahi for the Big Wave Tour competition was amazing for paddle-in surfing. You could not have asked for better conditions to run that contest in. I have had a fun time going to all the spots.

Did you have any highlight sessions that stood out above all others?
My highlight sessions have been at Pe'ahi and actually at Nelscott Reef. I got really barreled at both those places, and next to winning a world title that may be the best feeling in big wave riding. Just surviving it feels like a world championship win.

Lenny jags another XXL Tube of the Year entry at Nelscott Reef

It seems the Big Wave Tour are doing great work, though it was unfortunate about the second day of Nazaré.
Big wave surfing is tricky to forecast, and you often get skunked when you think it’ll be epic. As far as Nazaré goes, I think it was a tough call be so close to the end of the season and wanting to run an event. We have many better days ahead of ourselves!
What do you feel have been your greatest big wave achievements?
So far, my greatest achievements have been getting big barrels and having a vision only a few others in the world will ever see. After that, winning the Puerto Escondido event was a major highlight in my big wave career.

//CRAIG JARVIS

Comments

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Sunday, 25 Feb 2018 at 8:29pm

He's the real deal alrighty....

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Sunday, 25 Feb 2018 at 10:51pm

Honestly , I could live to be 10,000 years old and surfing at my peak the entire time and never get anywhere near those tubes .

Fucking amazing.

Well done and hats off to Mr Kemper.

Tim Bonython's picture
Tim Bonython's picture
Tim Bonython Monday, 26 Feb 2018 at 10:12am

All those guys deserve a World Crown. But yeah Billy has done the home work and knows what it takes to win & hats off to him. But the new season is going to be a race between Kai & Lucas, mark my words. Its going to be fun to watch.

John Eyre's picture
John Eyre's picture
John Eyre Monday, 26 Feb 2018 at 1:53pm

Billy sure earnt that title....no doubt

muffsic's picture
muffsic's picture
muffsic Monday, 26 Feb 2018 at 7:22pm

Kai treating semi close out Puerto like a 2 foot beachie with impeccable style was my highlight...up there with Laird as a great waterman.