Five minutes with Dylan Longbottom

Stu Nettle picture
Stu Nettle (stunet)
Talking Heads

vi2quaamwfdk68_1_hd.jpgDylan Longbottom is one of the fortunate few. Not because he's been a paid free surfer most of his adult life - although that's part of it - but because he's never had to cultivate a public image. Fella simply gets the call, goes surfing, rarely shaves (anyone else ever noticed that?), and the chips always fall his way. Even after the surf industry collapsed and CT surfers struggled for a big sticker, Dyl retained his gig simply by being himself.

Luck may have played a part, though when you peek behind the curtain you realise it's nowhere near the whole story. Although sponsored, Dylan decided to learn how to shape, so he sought out mentors, then set off on his own, he's also raised three kids, and absorbed the lessons and wisdom from his brother's crushing injury. 

At 39 years of age - he's been sponsored by Billabong for 22 of those years! - and with an ever growing label he's still the fella who gets the call and simply goes surfing. Most recently was a widely chronicled session just up the road from his hometown of Kiama.

Swellnet: You've always managed to be in or near the spotlight, did you ever follow the QS?
Dylan Longbottom: Yes, it's been a crazy ride under the spotlight, most of it free surfing and chasing big waves, however I also did the WQS for two years. I wasn’t really motivated to surf and hassle in crappy waves as surfing big perfect stuff is where my passion is.

How did you get involved in the Billabong Adventure Division?
Billabong Adventure Divison came about when we were all trying to find new big waves all round the world. We had a really solid crew of Margo, Rasta, Dorian, and then Parko and Andy would come on some trips which was great and they loved it being away from the tour.

It seemed like a perfect gig, chasing big waves around the world. Was there anything about that period that you didn't like?
Yeah, chasing swells was a great gig but the downfall and the hardest times was leaving my wife and kids at home.

You were a free surfer, riding some of the world's heaviest waves when Darren suffered his injury [Dylan's older brother Darren broke his neck in a freak surfing accident in the Mentawais in 2008]. Did that cause you to slow down or look at your career in a different light?
When my brother Darren broke his neck it hit me hard and I didn’t really know how to deal with it, to see my older bro in a wheelchair and not surf with me anymore or do the things he loved. But he has shown amazing strength to get through this and, yes, it made me be more selective with swells and more calculated when taking off and choosing the right waves. Before that I would just go anything.

Probably the scariest thing is how it happened to him, when it could have happened to me so many times on heavy wipeouts

The spotlight well and truly fell your way when you worked on Point Break. Tell us how you got the job?
Point Break was such a good experience and I was lucky that I matched the actors appearance and they needed an experienced guy at big Teahupoo [I tried to goad Dyl into saying something about his Hollywood good looks but he wouldn't be fooled].

At the same time it was really heavy for my tow partner and good friend Laurie Towner when he went down and hit the reef hard while shooting on the first big day.

It's funny, because the original Point Break was one of my favourite movies and I always thought the surfers that did the stunt doubles had the coolest gig.

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What about shaping experience: where did you work before starting your own label?
My shaping career began when my son Jay was born in 1999. I was living at Kiama on the South Coast and was bricklaying in between my surf trips but I really felt this urge to learn to shape.

I understand your old man did a bit of work for G&S back in the day.
Yeah, I grew up in and around surfboard factories with my father Ross who was a glasser at G&S for 25 years plus a lot of other factories in Wollongong and the South Coast. But I was lucky because my surfing career was taking off so I got to learn from the best shapers in the world. I worked with Simon Anderson, JS, Chilli, Warner, all those guys and more and it was invaluable knowledge for a young shaper.

You now split your time between Oz and Indo: how does that work with a young family?
Yes, I split my time between Bali and Australia to shape. It's hard and very busy and I have to keep up with it all because I still do all my own shaping. I have three kids and a wife, so I have to put in time there and make sure they're all getting what they need. My kids are homeschooled because they travel a lot.

You've surfed some of the world's heaviest waves and also shaped boards for them: is PU still the best material for surfboards?
My board for big waves are all PU. I have tested everything and these, I feel, are the best for large waves. I remember the Code Red swell at Teahupoo and all the guys riding my boards were making their waves whereas I saw a lot of guys riding epoxy just didn’t have the right combination. I love epoxy for small waves though.

Tow surfing is somewhat in retreat as the paddle resurgence takes over. Have you had much experience paddling huge waves?
Tow surfing is still the best! I don’t care what everyone is now saying, if it's over 15 feet and barrelling, yes, its fun to paddle, but if I'm towing I will get, let's say, fifty waves in a session versus maybe only five sometimes. Big difference, and you use less energy than paddling so you can surf longer, and also you can come in from way behind and get the best lines.

For example, how good was the tow in part of the Cape Fear comp versus, say, the WSL paddle comp in Spain?.....come on, lets get real! I say paddle when you can but if you get the opportunity and its crazy big then grab the rope and go deep.

You recently had a legitimately big day near home: how did that stack up against big waves in, say, Hawaii?
Wollongong the other week was more like Puerto Escondido crossed with Pipeline. Just crazy big, clean, and super heavy. I was getting smashed and the power felt exactly the same as Hawaii or Mexico, but I made some incredible barrels that are very clear in the memory bank.

If you could have that day again what would you do differently?
Honestly, I wouldn’t do anything different.

Visit Dylan's website

Comments

tonybarber's picture
tonybarber's picture
tonybarber Tuesday, 28 Jun 2016 at 11:00am

Great interview. Good to see that Billabong are still sponsoring. He goes where I can only dream to go.

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg Tuesday, 28 Jun 2016 at 1:36pm

Nice to hear an honest perspective on the tow/paddle debate...especially at that top echelon of size I think the overall level of performance has regressed with the paddle resurgence. Albeit a very valid argument is made that the rideable paddle level has increased immeasurably. Ultimately the argument will always resolve itself on individual preference but good on Dylan for saying what many won't.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Tuesday, 28 Jun 2016 at 1:41pm

And seems like a decent nice bloke

caml's picture
caml's picture
caml Tuesday, 28 Jun 2016 at 5:21pm

On a nice day for a jog I could run ten kilometres but if I use a motorbike I can go 100 km . Anyway ive always liked dylans approach to surfing & career & his tow boards are top of the range as far as ive seen , but not his big wave guns ive never heard of one

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Tuesday, 28 Jun 2016 at 6:02pm

Check his insta Caml a real nice 8'0 0n there and a pic riding a fucking monster wave on/for a 7'0

caml's picture
caml's picture
caml Tuesday, 28 Jun 2016 at 7:08pm

Ok will do udo but 8"0 isnt a gun even albee layer wouldn't ride that at jaws and hes on the smallest board of them all

caml's picture
caml's picture
caml Tuesday, 28 Jun 2016 at 7:23pm

Udo yeah thats a massive wave on a 7"0 ! But thats a 15s period swell too . Insane good surfers do that but still its not a big wave gun like im saying , I nean 9-12ft guns for xxl waves . No wonder the ski helped them catch the waves seeing the chances on a 7"0 arent good .

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Tuesday, 28 Jun 2016 at 7:52pm

There's no mention about xxl (jaws) size waves, caml.
Just big and heavy waves.

caml's picture
caml's picture
caml Tuesday, 28 Jun 2016 at 10:21pm

Tow vs paddle was mentioned , and I dont like paddling being outrated by towing.
i think Surfers should be considerate of the environment and not use fuel just cos its easier to catch more waves . And I disagree about dylans comment that you use less energy towing . Unless u work out in the gym loads then u will be sore as after a tow sesh compared to paddling the appropriate size surfboard

superfish's picture
superfish's picture
superfish Tuesday, 28 Jun 2016 at 10:39pm

oath caml just because something is easier doesnt mean its better, especially when the pelicans think they can have all the bombs. you dont get the same rush, the commitment and have to have knowledge of the ocean/reef.

caml's picture
caml's picture
caml Tuesday, 28 Jun 2016 at 11:56pm

Cool superfish . I didn't want to start a debate immediately on this . My point was originally that Dylan doesn't focus on xxl big paddle gun design . It was a pro-tow article

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Monday, 24 Jul 2017 at 9:54pm

Pic of Dylan on his Insta charging Large Windy Ribbed Ulu on a 6'8" Predator
Tough !

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Monday, 3 Sep 2018 at 2:34pm

Winter Sale - Dylan Shapes PU or Epoxy all are $550 !
fox surf coolangatta

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Monday, 28 Oct 2019 at 8:03pm

Dylanshapes board Demo day just done at Desert Pt
Definte more drive and could open up more different lines when i swapped from a epoxy to PU board says Dylan
Nice pics...man turns
Dylan shapes avail at Desert Point to buy and hire March 2020..

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Monday, 28 Oct 2019 at 8:29pm

How big was Deserts ?

Most energy I’ve ever seen in the water in Indo over the last few days. The cold water seems extra saline. Frothy surface whitewash you could drown in . Looking more like Chile than Indo. Dark water , big , thick lines and wetsuits. Thick fog over the lineup due to the temperature difference between air and ocean. A big set sends up so much mist that the lineup is completely hidden for a few seconds.

Meant to be bigger tomorrow.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Monday, 28 Oct 2019 at 8:36pm

6-maybe 8 ft check his insta
Bukit still solid today..heaps more coming at least 5 days of solid stuff eh fore casters ?