Watch: Lee Wilson’s 'Five Eight'

Ben Matson
Swellnet Dispatch

Lee Wilson writes: 

This swell popped up and it was super hyped. Like “Biggest in Ten Years” big. Brixton was backing it, so I decided to get out there. 

Board-wise; I had a shorty and a 5’8" slab board I designed with my shaper. On the way to the airport I picked up two stockies. Took me 24 hours to get there. Did my best to cut costs so I witnessed some weird shit on the way, I'll save that story for another day.

When I got there, it was about three times bigger than I expected, and to be honest, I felt pretty insignificant out there. The best big wave surfers in the world were all there wearing what they call an "impact vest”. Basically it's a thick vest that is designed to help you float you to the top and protect your tail bone from heavy impact against coral.

Big Wednesday comes and I ride a stock 6’2" and ended up wiping out so bad (I have trouble riding step ups) and I sat the rest of the day out and watched..it was terrifying, even from the beach. Honest. I knew the next day was gonna be solid as well and when I woke up it’s flames. I took a out my 5’8" and got some really fun rides, I daresay I had the trip of my life.

Filmed & Edited by Carlo Coral

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben commented Monday, 8 Oct 2018 at 3:14pm

Feel a little silly wishing for another inch or two on my 6'0 over the weekend.

In four foot Tweed Coast beachies. 

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Monday, 8 Oct 2018 at 3:29pm

Was that your 6”0 or 6’0 Ben ?

You wouldnt be the first surfer caught short by a cold snap.

Paging Gary G.

Gary G to the innuendo phone please.

Gary G's picture
Gary G's picture
Gary G commented Tuesday, 9 Oct 2018 at 10:40am

Gary receives a lot of emails on this subject, seems to be a common concern.

when you're feeling a bit undergunned, Gary advises holding the front tip of your craft for a bit longer than usual to make sure it engages with whatever beast it is you're trying to wrangle. Then keep your weight forward and use all the available gravity to maximise the thrust you can achieve on entry.

You and me, Gary, ain’t nothing but mammals so let’s do it* like they do it on the aerobics channel

*faceys

MidWestMonger's picture
MidWestMonger's picture
MidWestMonger commented Thursday, 11 Oct 2018 at 1:18pm

Bravo, these are the comments that propel this site into the stratosphere. I don't know how people can simply keep posting about the video after reading that. I just started applauding. Blowin set that perfectly like a set in volleyball right near the net with Gary G flying through the air spiking it into the unexpecting readers face. Awesome

grog-an's picture
grog-an's picture
grog-an commented Monday, 8 Oct 2018 at 3:42pm

Super hyped swell. "Biggest in ten years".
But when he got there it was 3x bigger than he expected?? How big did he think it would be?

WORDY SAID IT, SO BAD LUCK!!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben commented Monday, 8 Oct 2018 at 3:47pm

Good point. If we could settle on wave heights reaching ten-to-twelve feet, then that means he must have thought it'd be three-to-four.

Even the most pessimistic surfer would have expected well north of eight feet from this event. 

grog-an's picture
grog-an's picture
grog-an commented Monday, 8 Oct 2018 at 4:07pm

For sure.

WORDY SAID IT, SO BAD LUCK!!

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy commented Monday, 8 Oct 2018 at 4:02pm

A hard time riding step ups?
I love riding step-ups.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot commented Monday, 8 Oct 2018 at 4:45pm

Healey was on a 7’6” and he got the bomb of the day.

Don’t really understand how pro surfers don’t know what board to ride or aren’t prepared for swells that are forecasted days (weeks) out

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo commented Monday, 8 Oct 2018 at 5:07pm

Jughead went prepared...also a 5'8 with a 5'9 step up .

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot commented Monday, 8 Oct 2018 at 6:58pm

He get any the size of Healeys?

syril500's picture
syril500's picture
syril500 commented Monday, 8 Oct 2018 at 8:02pm

Jughead got some bombs. Healey waited most of the day for his bomb. Probably more patient than Jug.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot commented Monday, 8 Oct 2018 at 9:00pm

Both absolute maniacs!

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot commented Tuesday, 9 Oct 2018 at 8:13pm

Photograph of Jughead in the new tracks mag. Christ almighty that’s a big wave

tidak_bagus's picture
tidak_bagus's picture
tidak_bagus commented Monday, 8 Oct 2018 at 5:35pm

Those barrels are dark enough to eat your soul......

syril500's picture
syril500's picture
syril500 commented Monday, 8 Oct 2018 at 8:03pm

Those barrels destroyed plenty of the takers.

Garryh's picture
Garryh's picture
Garryh commented Tuesday, 9 Oct 2018 at 7:52pm

He made it look pretty easy...nice work....great vid

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo commented Tuesday, 9 Oct 2018 at 8:29pm

Fanning got a few big ones at Cloudbreak yesterday ...board didnt look to be a gun
joli insta

Latest News

Gabriel Medina can win the world title in Portugal

Stu Nettle

But these three things have to happen first.

What would happen if a tsunami hit Sydney?

Nancy Notzon

"We'd expect land to be inundated across Manly Corso, and waves to come from both the ocean and harbour side, eventually isolating North Head."

Watch: La Graviere last week

Stu Nettle

Pumping at the gravel pit.

Watch: Whomp Off 2018 highlights

Stu Nettle

Drain the whomp!

Richo book launch - new dates!

Stu Nettle

Heading to NSW north coast and Queensland.

Julian Wilson and Courtney Conlogue Win Quiksilver Pro and Roxy Pro France

Julian’s victory is his second of the season. The Women's World Title race now heads to Maui.

Watch: Reality at the Surf Ranch

Craig Brokensha

The World Surf League may paint a glowing picture of high performance surfing and scorching athleticism, but the humdrum reality of daily life at the Surf Ranch is a different story.

New fused carbon tape made here in Oz

Sanded Australia introduce new 'fused carbon tape' to stengthen boards.