'LA Bob' drowns at Avalon Beach

Stu Nettle picture
Stu Nettle (stunet)
Swellnet Dispatch

The first decent swell to hit Sydney in six weeks brought tragedy at Avalon this morning. Amongst a 4-6 foot long-period swell, a local surfer had his legrope caught in rocks and was unable to untangle himself. He was freed by a group of surfers who saw his body, they brought him onto the rock platfrom and began CPR in vain.

The surfer, a local identity named Bob, or LA Bob as Litle Av was his favourite wave, was the star of a popular short film made by Spencer Frost in 2017. The award-winning film celebrates "the life of a man called Bob. Throughout his entire life he's always put the ocean first, which has lead to him being homeless and living in a van. But he loves the ocean and his life as much as ever, and of course, still surfs every day."

RIP Bob

Thoughts go out to family, friends, and to those surfers who brought him onto the rockshelf and attempted to resucitate him.

 

 

Comments

Basil's picture
Basil's picture
Basil Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 11:48am

I've watched the film a few times and thought that it takes real guts to ignore all the external pressures of what life "should" be and just do what you love. Sad to read this. All the best in the next world Bob.

zenagain's picture
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zenagain Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 12:08pm

Sad reading.

RIP mate.

spuddyjack's picture
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spuddyjack Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 12:13pm

An individual true to himself and not a sell-out to the emasculating failed capitalist dream.
RIP.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 12:21pm

Not so long ago on Swellnet we ran a story about the pros and cons of unbreakable legropes which were being marketed out of the USA. Unbreakable cord, that is, they still had a quick release clip.

Thing is, few people know how to use a quick release clip in moving water and this seems like as good a place as any to repeat the advice:

If your legrope gets caught around rocks and the current moves you away from the snag, do not try to bend at the hips to reach down and undo your legrope. It won't work, the moving water wont allow it and you'll use up precious oxygen.

Instead bend your leg at the knee and bring your ankle towards your body. From there you can easily reach down and undo the clip or velcro.

mrkook's picture
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mrkook Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 9:21pm

Excellent advice mate, I did exactly this ( tried to bend at the waist) when hooked up on the reef at ulus coming in on a big day. I almost drowned, just managed to flick the leggy off before blacking out. My board remained trapped by the leggy despite 8ft of white water repeatedly swamping it.

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Wednesday, 22 Aug 2018 at 8:45am

I think it is something that is well worth practising in a spare moment between sets particularly at this time of year when your wetsuit can extend over part of the strap. I was surfing a break with a lot of rocks through the line up yesterday and it certainly made me think!

memlasurf's picture
memlasurf's picture
memlasurf Wednesday, 22 Aug 2018 at 2:56pm

Great advice have been caught a few times and managed to get it off somehow.

suckin-sand's picture
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suckin-sand Friday, 24 Aug 2018 at 1:56pm

Agree. Great advice. I’ve had 2 wave hold downs in 12ft surf but closest I’ve felt to drowning was at 2ft Burleigh when this happened to me years ago. Strong current pulling me away from snagged leg rope and board, pulled under and unable to reach my ankle. Panic was starting to set in but I got it, didn’t think about how. RIP Bob.

surfing-cronulla's picture
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surfing-cronulla Tuesday, 28 Aug 2018 at 2:11pm

Great advice. With all my years of experience got caught at Shark Island and chin just above water getting dunked every foamie that passed. Yelling out to Greeny who just waved ... couldn't hear or noticed I was in trouble. NEVER thought to simply quick release it, just kept pulling and hoping. It happens.
Was with Tim Bonython that arvo and he was visibly upset about the loss of his mate. Sad loss RIP

spuddyjack's picture
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spuddyjack Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 12:36pm

Addendum:

Bob was clearly one of those quintessential watermen; authentically connected to nature, courageous and had found his spirit of place. Hopefully there will be an ocean based requiem for him by the locals.

crg's picture
crg's picture
crg Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 12:59pm

I loved that short film...I remember feeling so connected to his life and his choices. Very sad news...at least he passed doing what he loved. RIP Bob.

Chipper's picture
Chipper's picture
Chipper Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 1:05pm

What a lovely bloke whose end was premature .... but maybe in the end it was the right place for Bob to end...... Whatever the case.... i hope he's found peace ...... he will be remembered.

Wave lover forever's picture
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Wave lover forever Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 2:17pm

Rest in Peace BOB, Avalon is one of my favorite beaches . My thought go out to all that knew him

simba's picture
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simba Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 3:05pm

Well he was true to his last few words in that clip.......RIP mate.

Toppa's picture
Toppa's picture
Toppa Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 3:11pm

Without knowing him and having just watched the video I think Bob may have had life worked out. Looks like he may have lived in the moment making the most of each day and each wave that came his way. RIP Bob.

SurferSam's picture
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SurferSam Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 3:24pm

He’s prob got more barrels and happiness then any of us by living that simple life. Hats off to him. Rip in peace mate

Agitator's picture
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Agitator Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 3:29pm

Know Bob for decades, was a nice chap. Hope the next life is a step UP the ladder for you ol mate.

tonks's picture
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tonks Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 4:17pm

What a sad story,just watched the short movie about BOB.What in inspiration he should be to all of us,his love of life and the ocean were boundless.And too those guys who helped him a big thanks.R.I.P. Bob,may you surf with God now in heaven!

Rabbits68's picture
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Rabbits68 Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 4:33pm

Sounds like you died a content man Bob. Can't ask for much more than that. I had never heard of you before today. Beautiful clip. May you rest in peace mate.

goofyfoot's picture
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goofyfoot Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 4:40pm

Bugger. RIP Bob. That’s sad news

dandandan's picture
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dandandan Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 4:44pm

A sad day for all who knew him I am sure. Certainly reminded me how important the sea is to my life and that I too often let my time spent surfing slip away from me.

Some footage in here of Bob, and I think it's him getting a beautiful barrel too.

indo-dreaming's picture
indo-dreaming's picture
indo-dreaming Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 5:58pm

Sad story, but cool video, sad to hear he passed away, but seems like if he had to go this was the way he would have wanted.

I can relate to living in a van lived in one a few times for about six months each time and you get use to it and it becomes home i remember moving into a house after months in a van and it seemed weird like it was too big and not comforting and i felt like i wanted to go sleep in my van again.

chad schomberg's picture
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chad schomberg Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 6:10pm

Great guy, great surfer, great life. Good on you Bob

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 6:13pm

RIP Bob, the best way to go and the way you would of wanted.

nextswell's picture
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nextswell Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 7:23pm

I think his story would resonate with most people who surf , no matter of circumstance. Very few live the way they wish. A simple life. An inspiration. Wishing Bob many clean, offshore days in the next life.

thatguy's picture
thatguy's picture
thatguy Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 7:36pm

RIP champ.

syril500's picture
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syril500 Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 8:28pm

RIP Bob. You were an inspiration to all of us mate. Our indo adventures were all time. So many fond memories. The one and only Bob who lived to surf.

Itsmemickyb's picture
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Itsmemickyb Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 8:33pm

LA bob's a great moniker : )

possum66's picture
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possum66 Tuesday, 21 Aug 2018 at 9:57pm

Way to go Bob. We'll all miss you mate and I'll especially miss sharing waves with you as we have so often over the years. RIP.

saltman's picture
saltman's picture
saltman Wednesday, 22 Aug 2018 at 7:32am

Such a sad loss
His memory will live on

DeXtrus's picture
DeXtrus's picture
DeXtrus Wednesday, 22 Aug 2018 at 7:36am

RIP Bob.

Kham's picture
Kham's picture
Kham Wednesday, 22 Aug 2018 at 7:54am

If we could only all be so content with life and to be lucky enough to die doing what we love most, at our most cherished spot. RIP brother.

daltz's picture
daltz's picture
daltz Wednesday, 22 Aug 2018 at 7:59am

That's really sad news. Such a nice fella.
True words Kham.
RIP Bob

the-u-turn's picture
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the-u-turn Wednesday, 22 Aug 2018 at 12:14pm

Such a lovely tribute to Bob in that little video. A man content with life. Vale Bob.

johnnyboy's picture
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johnnyboy Wednesday, 22 Aug 2018 at 12:53pm

Bugger... he must of been knocked out and unable to detach the leggy. There's no way a guy with his experience would be conscious underwater and not detach and I imagine it would not be the first time it would of happened to him getting the leggy caught. I remember him being in the van when Iived in central ave 20 years ago and still there 20 years later when I used to pull in to check LA on the way to the wedge. Went out doing what he loved...true slave to the wave. SICK DOG. peace.

two-dogs's picture
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two-dogs Wednesday, 22 Aug 2018 at 1:19pm

Sad news indeed. RIP Bob...
If you know the surfers that tried to help him might be worth checking in to see how they are going..... can be quite confronting dealing with situations like that....

blindboy's picture
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blindboy Wednesday, 22 Aug 2018 at 1:43pm

Great advice two-dogs!

Reform's picture
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Reform Wednesday, 22 Aug 2018 at 9:21pm

Condolences to Bobs family and friends. Lovely, lovely film clip! If I can make a comment Stu about what to do if your leggie gets caught on a rock crevice, cunjevoi or anything on the ocean floor. It happened to me once whilst paddling out at the cove at Burleigh heads. It was in that body of water that is barely 1 foot deep, the swells coming through this area have lost their size and volume but is still evident to some degree.
My leg rope had snagged on something, thing is I didn’t realise what was actually happening. I was on my board paddling out, I pushed under a very small wave. What happened next was I was being pushed down wholly, board and me just under the surface because while my leggie was hooked and with the flow of the water coming in it wouldn’t let me up, My thoughts at the time were,’ naturally Ill surface anytime now and take a breath’. I could feel that I was so close to the surface but it wouldn’t let me up, by then the next wave came through and I was holding tight onto my board still submerged and realised in order for me to surface I had to let go of my board, which I did and was able to surface then. I was freed only when I let go of my surfboard!
In hind sight I’m wondering how that might have happened because my leggie was snagged behind me and it was stretched tight, I was heading out so the flow of water (sweep) must have been heading out as well hence keeping the board submerged. Any how the message here I think is to let go of your surfboard first and then release your leg rope. Or both simultaneously if possible. I had the false security of holding onto the board but by doing that it actually kept me under the waterline. Ditch the board! And you are free then to surface. My take only, any comments on this theory is welcome.

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 8:30am

I got my leg rope hooked on a coral head at HTs. Luckily my head was partially above water but with the turbulence it was really difficult to get a hold of the strap. I was like that for a minute or so before the strap detached from the cord. If I had been completely underwater I would have been in deep trouble. Bob's death has really made me think. I have been looking at leg ropes with a quick release pin as that is going to make things much easier. O&E have them but only on their 8ft big wave models. Has anyone seen them on a standard 6ft cord?

Reform's picture
Reform's picture
Reform Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 1:37pm

Hey bb,
I wonder how many surfers have experienced this potentially life threatening situation. I have learned from experience and wish to advise / inform the readers of 2 occasions.
1. Whilst jumping off the ledge at the Wedge with the leggie trailing, the cord looped around a cunjevoi head. I was left dangling and desperate, only threat here is being a subject to the next wave about to get to you before getting the chance to unhook the cord, lesson – Now, I always have the cord where I can see it in front of me before jumping off so minimising the potential to snag on a rock etc. Basic stuff, but I see it all the time guys jumping off with their leggie trailing.
2. As mentioned in the above post, at the cove Burleigh Heads, and I think this is a good lesson to heed, if I had continued to hold onto my board I would not have surfaced even with an unhooked strap around my ankle.
Take this as a hypothesis, if the leggie is snagged and you’re able to undo the strap, what if the cord doesn’t release, it’s still wedged between 2 rocks. And you are still holding onto your board but your board is pinned to the bottom, underwater, at the end of a stretched and taut cord because of the forces of the water flow. You think you’ll surface because the board always comes up right? It didn’t for me! I was holding on and it took a few moments of concentration to realise what was happening, it was quite scary as I was nearing the end of my breath! I had to consciously work it out that the only way to surface was to let go of my board.
So it’s not just about the releasing of the strap. Let go of the board firstly and then the strap if needed would be my advice. Thanks..
With all respects to LA Bob, hope my use of this forum regarding this matter, it’s not too intrusive or confronting for his closest ones.

stunet's picture
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stunet Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 1:53pm

@Reform,

What do you mean you "have the cord where I can see it in front of me"?

My local involves a tricky rock jump and I never let the leggy touch the rocks while jumping. I hold my board with my right arm and run the leggy semi-taut from my ankle to a loop in my right hand - it doesn't touch the rock platfrom at all. Then, when I leap I let go of the slack.

I've fucked up a hundred rock jumps, caught on exposed shelves, fallen down potholes, chosen a low tide rock at high tide etc etc but never got my leggy snagged on dry rock.

 

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 1:58pm

I concur. Run the same system and never have the leggy dangling without tension, even when running from the beach into the water. You'll only need to learn that lesson once..

surfing-cronulla's picture
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surfing-cronulla Tuesday, 28 Aug 2018 at 3:12pm

Stunet.
You and me both. Hold leggy in a small loop in the hand holding the board, loop enough to take up the slack from leg, two fingers, release in mid air on the jump over the foam. Thought just common sense?
Huge sidewash out of nowhere instantly drained the foamy, landed on the shelf a few feet down, white rock fingers to the bone both hands. Much pain, blood and swearing. First wave went skidding sideways, fin gone too and surf over.
Getting out's a whole other story. Foot down sea urchin potholes on drains then smacked forward by a set, ripped shins through wettie getting washed up and over and too many nicked feet and stubbed toes. Not thought where leash is? Could be a big problem in hindsight.
EDIT: watched vid again and never noticed but LA Bob is doing this.

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 3:01pm

I saw a mate of mine do the exact same thing at The Wedge years ago Reform. Fortunately the only thing damaged was his pride as the next wave lifted the leash free.

50young's picture
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50young Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 2:30pm

time 3 I never let my leggie go until I,m in the water

Reform's picture
Reform's picture
Reform Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 2:42pm

Nicely worded Stu.. re 'tricky rock jump' thanks , We're definitely on the same page there.
The main point I wanted to address was the holding onto and letting go of the board when the leg rope gets snagged on the reef, I feel this is worthy of discussion. This happened to me many, many years ago so stretching the memory further I'd like to correct what I wrote and say that the depth of water was somewhere between 1 and 2 feet deep, probably more like it.

Ray Shirlaw's picture
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Ray Shirlaw Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 2:51pm

I've surfed all my life& usually roll my steamer leg back down over my leggy cuff after attaching it to my bare ankle. It feels more secure but is clearly an unsafe practice. Been hooked up twice and yes it can be scary&disorienting. Probably sounds a bit silly but maybe in an unusual circumstance a quick release on the rail saver could be a plan B.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 2:55pm

Interesting, another tangent of discussion but I always put my leggy over the top of my wetsuit, surely the wetsuit would flush etc. if you tried to put it over the legrope.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 3:10pm

No.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 3:17pm

Actually some of my wetties go a touch short so I wear it just below and snug with the wetty line, but never put the wetty over it..

goofyfoot's picture
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goofyfoot Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 9:27pm

might need to buy a wettie that fits Craig!

Craig's picture
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Craig Friday, 24 Aug 2018 at 6:10am

Haha nah they all fit fine and mostly perfect :)

blindboy's picture
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blindboy Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 3:44pm

Mine tend to be a bit long in the leg so, one way or another, they do tend to ride over the strap ........ not a good look!

CryptoKnight's picture
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CryptoKnight Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 4:12pm

You've been doing reasonably well young Craig... but no... obviously still some 'work' to do! In a nutshell!

As the stupe commanded... No means no! Again! in a nutshell!

If you want to freeze your nuts off in cold water, and enjoy the experience of constant flush outs, and a frozen calf... and a stretched, useless wettie ankle seal, put your wettie leg over your leggy. If you want to stay warm, and avoid a cold water enema up your leg every 2 seconds, put your leggy strap on top of your wetsuit at the ankle. Buying wetties that fit perfectly, avoiding flushouts is wetsuit 101, basic shit, hence customs. Plus you can always get to the ankle strap.

https://www.atbshop.co.uk/wetsuit-accessories/mystic-velcro-ankle-straps

Craig's picture
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Craig Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 4:15pm

Ha.

CryptoKnight's picture
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CryptoKnight Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 4:34pm

Just let the boss do his 'thingy' Craig, but don't weaken, despite what the east coasters babble, as they tend to do on the eastern seaboard (what else is there to do), again, in a nutshell, its not cool at all!!!!?

https://www.tracksmag.com.au/news/wetsuit-wars-and-bell-bottom-long-john...

No, don't weaken, just let 'disco' stupe (again) think he's hot!!!

Reform's picture
Reform's picture
Reform Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 5:38pm

Modified text from an earlier post:
Take this as a hypothesis,The leggie gets snagged on a part of the reef. 1st thing you do is rip the strap off your ankle, what if the cord is still wedged between 2 rocks, you’re still holding onto your board right!. So you’re leggie is off and you are still holding onto your board but your board and you begin to submerge and are suspended under the waterline, the board and you are held at the end of a stretched, taut and snagged cord because of the forces of the water flow in conjunction with your body weight aiding the sinking effect. You think you’ll surface because the board always comes up right? It didn’t for me! I was holding on to my board and it took a few moments of concentration to realise what was happening, it was quite scary as I was not surfacing to get air, I was nearing the end of my breath! I had to consciously work it out that the only way to surface was to let go of my board.
So it’s not just about the releasing of the strap. Let go of the board firstly and then the strap if needed would be my advice. Thanks

tubeshooter's picture
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tubeshooter Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 5:55pm

'The monkey is trapped not by anything physical , but by an idea , unable to see that a principle that served him well has become lethal'

Reform's picture
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Reform Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 10:43pm

tubeshooter - That is a brilliant analogy!!! Wow!

mbuckis's picture
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mbuckis Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 8:27pm

I ve been practising in the pool for hold downs by swimming 200 metres then holding myself under for 3 x 30 second reps - is this good training for 8 - 10 foot surf? I find letting out a tiny bit of air about the 20 second mark slightly dampens my need to breathe, has anyone else tried this?

mbuckis's picture
mbuckis's picture
mbuckis Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 8:27pm

I ve been practising in the pool for hold downs by swimming 200 metres then holding myself under for 3 x 30 second reps - is this good training for 8 - 10 foot surf? I find letting out a tiny bit of air about the 20 second mark slightly dampens my need to breathe, has anyone else tried this?

mbuckis's picture
mbuckis's picture
mbuckis Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 8:27pm

I ve been practising in the pool for hold downs by swimming 200 metres then holding myself under for 3 x 30 second reps - is this good training for 8 - 10 foot surf? I find letting out a tiny bit of air about the 20 second mark slightly dampens my need to breathe, has anyone else tried this?

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 8:53pm

@mbuckis youneed to be aware of shallow water blackout. If you are doing breath holding exercises underwater you really should have someone supervising you.

goofyfoot's picture
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goofyfoot Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 9:31pm

definitely need a spotter doing this, s.w.b is not to be taken lightly

mbuckis's picture
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mbuckis Thursday, 23 Aug 2018 at 8:27pm

& Bob from the film - what a legend

Agitator's picture
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Agitator Friday, 24 Aug 2018 at 9:27am

Shouldn't the title read - "LA Bob" drowns at LA

stunet's picture
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stunet Friday, 24 Aug 2018 at 9:32am

Why?

Agitator's picture
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Agitator Friday, 24 Aug 2018 at 9:55am

Because it was at LA where he was surfing and where he actually got his leg rope tangled and drowned. Anyway just an observation that's all.

stunet's picture
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stunet Friday, 24 Aug 2018 at 12:04pm

Lot of people dont know 'LA' as a surf spot, hence the Avalon reference.

Anyway, like you say it's kinda off topic. Doesn't mean much.

eastcoastbuoy's picture
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eastcoastbuoy Friday, 24 Aug 2018 at 11:59am

Awful news and condolences to Bobs family and friends.
Mbuckis and any others interested should give the Breath Enhancement Training (BET) course a go when its run in different Sydney locations from time to time. Run by professionals who surf and have the experience and skills to share for surf from 1ft to 20ft. If anything it teaches you to be as calm as possible in underwater situations that are foreign to most of us when it gets bigger.

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rogerdodger Sunday, 26 Aug 2018 at 12:28am

Bob sums up the soul reason I and I guess many others surf.
"Especially in times of stress, if life is stressing you out in different ways, you can jump in the ocean and float around ..and any troubles , any problems just seem to float away from you."
Freakin' spot on Bob. RIP Champion.

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John Eyre Tuesday, 28 Aug 2018 at 3:06pm

RiP......Bob.......Legend

ohtoo's picture
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ohtoo Thursday, 30 Aug 2018 at 12:02pm

bob bitchen... great man, surfboard shaper, class act....truly heart breaking to fumble across this news. so many great times!! met him at scar reef at leighs joint years back, then over and over again on lombok, so many bintangs, so many waves, such great times. Ive many rich friends, none as wealthy as bob bitchen, I heard him called homeless bob? i call bullshit on that, he chose a path of happiness, of true wealth, the sea was his home, his second mother, his saving grace, see ya on the other side mate! fuck.....

saltman's picture
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saltman Friday, 31 Aug 2018 at 3:46pm

Yeah His Bitchin boards - they were all one offs, just like Bob himself
Probably one of the most content guys I have ever met.
Condolences to the early morning LA crew and of course for his son and grandchildren

Blowin's picture
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Blowin Thursday, 30 Aug 2018 at 1:42pm

Respect to Bob for adhering to his beliefs against the subtle yet powerful urge of society to conform.

If it feels right.....do it.

SI's picture
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SI Thursday, 30 Aug 2018 at 8:54pm

Wow, truly sad news. But what a wonderful lot of good hearted comments. Don’t think I’ve ever read so many beautiful comments from the surfing community. I didn’t know Bob as I’m a Victorian surf coast man, but it is obvious that he personified the good spirit that we meet from time to time in the water and he has obviously bought it out in other surfers who have commented. I’ve also surfed nearly 45 years now and have been hooked lots of times by my leggie. One time I got rolled inside a big barrel and then pinned on the bottom- two wave hold down - I tried coming up but my board was covered over on the bottom by thick kelp. It was sunny so I could kind of see what had happened so I dived back down and lifted the kelp off and released my board - then I came up. It all took a bit of time - I was a teenager at the time and very fit - the thing is, even though I was experienced, I didn’t think of taking off my leggie. It could have easily had a bad ending. I have told my son and others the story. I notice that at some spots there are some guys -not me - but other guys take off their leggie, when coming in around rocky areas or ledge type set ups. It’s all pretty thought prevoking and very sad to hear of Bob passing away- I guess it’s difficult to know exactly what happened as one commentator said, he thought he may have been knocked out - that actually happens a lot more often than some folks think. I have been fully knocked out once and kind of half knocked out several times...as I’m getting older I’m thinking I might get one of those Gath helmets...
RIP Bob.

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surfkook Monday, 3 Sep 2018 at 2:41pm

Didn't know Bob ,but feel like I did I really missed out I think. Condolences to Family friends . Bobs surfer mates , I hope you all ride a wave for him or have a beer in his car park together and tell those surfing stories.
Sounds like he had a inspirational surfing life.
RIP Bob ,I am sure he is still surfing somewhere .

Island Bay's picture
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Island Bay Monday, 23 Nov 2020 at 8:47am

"Not so long ago on Swellnet we ran a story about the pros and cons of unbreakable legropes which were being marketed out of the USA. Unbreakable cord, that is, they still had a quick release clip.

Thing is, few people know how to use a quick release clip in moving water and this seems like as good a place as any to repeat the advice:

If your legrope gets caught around rocks and the current moves you away from the snag, do not try to bend at the hips to reach down and undo your legrope. It won't work, the moving water wont allow it and you'll use up precious oxygen.

Instead bend your leg at the knee and bring your ankle towards your body. From there you can easily reach down and undo the clip or velcro." - Stu

Stu, this bit of advice may just have saved my life today. Thank you!

Since reading it, I have practiced it a few times, but today was all serious business. 6ft+ at my local, which is 600m from shore, and a bit wild and woolly, but there were some good ones. Just me and the gannets.

On my third wave I got shut down on the inside and washed through the rockgarden until my leggie caught. I immediately thought of your technique, but it still took me a few minutes to even get my hand to the velcro while mostly underwater. Raging whitewater current.

Finally released it, and man did that feel good. Board and I washed quickly through the inside, and I paddled in feeling pretty fortunate. The board must have been caught fins down, cause they were a bit chewed up, but my beloved 7'6 Spartan was unscathed.

Phew.

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icandig's picture
icandig Monday, 23 Nov 2020 at 8:57am

Good news IB...Might get me some new leg ropes with quick release.

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Monday, 23 Nov 2020 at 9:02am

Thought about those a lot, but the real issue if getting your hand down there.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 23 Nov 2020 at 9:04am

Big relief there, and good work remembering. I've told a few people this technique.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Monday, 23 Nov 2020 at 9:08am

Glad to hear you're alright, IB, but it's frightening all the same. How many people don't know about that technique..?

It's not intuitive; you need to be told. I know I did.

Now rest up, mate.

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Monday, 23 Nov 2020 at 9:29am

Not intuitive, no. But it works. Thanks again, mate.

Gave the dog some extra pats and a handful of liver treats, and sat in the warm sun sipping a strong coffee.

Life is good.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Monday, 23 Nov 2020 at 9:34am

Glad things turned out well IB.

For yourself, Stu and anyone else who has found themselves in this kind of precarious situation: Can you think of a scenario where the snag is so tight, the current so strong you could flex you knee to your reaching hand? (it is bending knee rather than flexing hip and knee yeah?)