Late season run - gallery

Craig Brokensha
Swellnet Dispatch

Positioned off the Indonesian coast, at the end of a remote island, lies a perfect right hand reef, one I've dreamt of since my teenage years. Yeah, that one.

It's a mission to get to, three flights and a long nerve wracking drive consisting of multiple deadly obstacles. As nonchalant school kids, barely 10 years of age, walk four abreast around blind corners while mopeds and trucks race by, only centimetres away. A quick beep warns of the incoming danger, but none seem to even flinch let look back over their right shoulder.

I'm not one to get anxious, but the car ride was enough to bring the slightest of insecurities to the surface.

Once at the losmen, looking over the bay with a belly full of nasi goreng, the endless hours of travel faded from memory.

The first couple of days provided playful 3-5ft surf, and a great introduction to the reef and lineup before things ramped up a little the following days. Sets in the 6ft range, with a couple of bigger bombs saw the wave start to really come to life, but with the swell being made so far away, the inconsistency left you wanting for more, especially when sitting at the top of the lineup waiting for the next perfect set to roll in.

The wave provides many different moods, depending on the tide, size and direction of the incoming swell. From perfect open carve bowls to a barrel on take-off or into the second section down the line it has it all with the reef generally deep enough not to cause concern.

The local kids provided great entertainment post school, surfing the inside reform rights and short wedgey left in between selling coconuts and asking for gifts and assortments.

Surfing at the end of the season allowed a much more chilled and relaxed vibe in and out of the water, and a greater opportunity to mix with the local community through the day and into the evenings without the peak season crowds.

Part of the trip was also for the friends/doctors I was travelling with to put the wheels in motion regarding opening a local medical centre staffed by volunteer travellers. There's no medical facilities close to the wave at all, and while catering to surfers during peak season, the medical centre will be of greater value to the local people.

A make-shift consulting area was set up in a community centre one morning in the local town, with 20-30 local people being seen by three Australian doctors. While some cases were beyond the scope of a simple consultation, helpful medical advice was translated across to the community which was quite a moving experience.

I can't wait to get back to the region in the coming years and hopefully see the proposed medical centre put into motion while experiencing the beautiful surrounds the island has to offer. // CRAIG BROKENSHA


indo-dreaming's picture
indo-dreaming's picture
indo-dreaming commented Wednesday, 8 Nov 2017 at 8:34am

I like these articles that come with more than just pics of waves, gives you much more of a feel for the place.

Ada gula, ada semut!

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy commented Wednesday, 8 Nov 2017 at 12:01pm

Great work Craig. Where do I donate?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig commented Wednesday, 8 Nov 2017 at 1:38pm

Have asked Raf the best way to go about this.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig commented Monday, 13 Nov 2017 at 8:33pm

Other than donating to Fitiria's Gofundme page like before, he said maybe hold off until they have a formal structure for this project. Thanks blindboy.

Gary G's picture
Gary G's picture
Gary G commented Wednesday, 8 Nov 2017 at 12:27pm

Gary agrees with Indo,

It's always nice when Swellnet erect a new article that acknowledges there is more to surf travel than cropped shots of waves. Really makes it about the experience. Gary would appreciate if on your next trip you could take a few shots that are partially obscured by sand dunes or shrubs, to really capture the experience Gary typically has at the beach.

A couple of nice faceys in there too, Craig-o; although those legs could do with a bit of fake tan.

I got all my Gary's and me

daisy duke kahanamoku's picture
daisy duke kahanamoku's picture
daisy duke kaha... commented Wednesday, 8 Nov 2017 at 1:09pm

Is that Craig imitating Josh Kerr with a double hand drag??

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig commented Wednesday, 8 Nov 2017 at 1:17pm

Two mits in the oven!

brainiac's picture
brainiac's picture
brainiac commented Wednesday, 8 Nov 2017 at 1:21pm

Maybe Swellnet could employ me as their roving cultural surf reporter?
feel free to contact me Ben.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo commented Wednesday, 8 Nov 2017 at 7:52pm

Scored nicely
Which airlines did you fly......any board charges ?

the-u-turn's picture
the-u-turn's picture
the-u-turn commented Monday, 13 Nov 2017 at 8:16pm

I enjoyed that read. Simple, straight forward and rewarding. Thanks Craig.

The U Turn
...a little Aloha goes a long way.

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