Just Passing Through: Shane Dorian - video
It's the latest from Reef's 'Just Passing Through' series and they're calling it an El Nino special. Weeeelll....the first waves are filmed at Cloudbreak and the link between Southern Ocean swells and El Nino is tenuous at best, but hey let's not get all sciencey when there are tropical pits to admire.
Of course there's plenty of Jaws and there the science is settled. Dorian's Jaws board is called the PBU - Pray Before Use - and watching some of his takeoffs will make you a believer, if not in the big bloke upstairs then in the supremely gifted hands of his shaper, John Carper. They're a divine team.
Comments
Yep, devine. Classic.
Dorian is the divinity.
COMMITMENT.
How smooth were those back hand bottom turns at cloudbreak :))
Jaws !!!! well just .....
How gutsy and as stated above, committed in pretty much life and death situations is Shane-o.......another awesome vid....love his style so easy on the eye.Well done.
Fukn nut bag @ jaws looked like he was taking off from a standing start to air drop
So refreshing to see footage of him in small waves again, well relatively small. We all now he's a machine in the big stuff but a good reminder to how stylish he is when he's not riding a 10'0
That Jaws footage was the best surfing I have ever seen. Dorian showing he is not just some crazy guy having a crack, but a precise and calculated surfer who can adapt to any situation and do it perfectly.
Do you reckon his wife gets to see any of this footage or has he switched of the cable modem? I know mine gets twitchy when I'm out in 4 footers. Mental stuff. As above, the commitment to the drop is unreal.
Considering he almost died at Mavericks, a horrific two waver not long after Sion Milosky died, she must be very understanding (or she's upped his life insurance!).
That's actually an interesting point, do you reckon you can find a policy that covers charging 40 footers? If there is, it must be a hell of a monthly.
I've learnt over time to just not tell my wife I'm going surfing . . Might be bad if I go missing on a solo session , but kind of outweighs the guilt trip your given for whatever reason they make up each week /month . Thankfully she's oblivious of the stupid shit I do .
Back on topic ,
On all of the more critical drops ( yeah I know they all were ) , but he sets his rail before he even contemplates the drop . It's like , pop to his feet and set rail , or on the really Full on ones he does it in the one motion . I've seen T Ray do these mid wave bottom turns on big boards as early as 15-20 years ago . Shane is currently / definitely on another scale though . Standout .
The ability to turn mid wave sets him apart from others at jaws that only start their turn at the bottom and invariably get swallowed up.
Maybe it has something to do with the board.
Oldman was thinking the same - anything different going on with John Carpers boards....fins ,fin config ,rails etc ?
Gary believe's it's Dorian's tree-trunk legs. The other surfers at Jaws don't do as many one legged squats and hence can't ride such Elite faceys..
The other good thing is I hope this inspires people to buy a gun and start paddling in again like the good old days when there were no jet skis in the line up and you paddled out and had your turn. If Dorian can keep it pure at Jaws, then surely the Goldy boys and others like them can sell those rotten skis and spend the money on a new quiver instead. Clean air, no noise, friendship and a big pointy board...ahhh bliss.
Clips don't get any better than that
How good would the chat be around the BBQ....
The best ever surfer IMHO...