XXL north swell to slam Hawaii

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)
Swellnet Analysis

In the wake of the XXL swell that saw Ian Walsh win the recent Peahi Challenge, the North Pacific has fallen quiet with a lack of significant weather systems forming off the Japanese and Russian coasts.

The setup will persist over the coming week, though after that we're due to see a very significant storm form in a rare part of Hawaii's swell window, that being directly to the north, off the the eastern Aleutian Islands.

This weekend, a strong node of the Long Wave Trough will protrude into the north-east Pacific Ocean, and subsequently a deep low forming in the Bering Sea will follow its path.

An elongated fetch of severe-gale N/NW winds will be projected south close to the Hawaiian Islands, generating an XL swell in its own right, but a secondary intensification of gales slingshotting on top of this already active sea state will amplify the swell further.

A particularly consistent XXL northerly groundswell is due to hit Peahi square on Wednesday next week, with the size topping that seen a couple of weeks ago.

At this stage we're looking at surf reaching 30ft+, while outer reefs and breaks exposed to the north swell on the North Shore looks to come in at 20-25ft+.

Owing to size and direction, Honolua Bay, which is normally protected in north-west swells, will be very large. This swell will hit just a few days before the waiting period for the women's title decider at Honolua Bay. Also, other breaks that are dormant and sheltered from the dominant north-west swell direction will light up across the islands.

Winds are a little dicey due to the storm pushing so close to the Hawaiian Islands, but a high pressure ridge moving in from the north-west should hopefully see NE tending E/NE trades developing as the swell peaks.

The swell will also filter down into Papua New Guinea over four days later, arriving Monday the 27th of November but with no significant size owing to swell decay due to the large travelling distance.

Fiji's north coast however should see some great though inconsistent surf Monday/Tuesday the 27/28th with sets reaching 6ft.

Keep an eye out on the site and comment below to see how this swell and the local winds eventually play out.

16 day Peahi Forecast Graph
16 day Peahi WAMs
16 day North Shore Forecast Graph
16 day North Shore WAMs

Comments

eddiewouldgo's picture
eddiewouldgo's picture
eddiewouldgo Friday, 17 Nov 2017 at 3:38am

Owing to size and direction, Honolua Bay, which is normally protected in north-west swells, will be very large. This swell will hit just a few days before the waiting period for the women's title decider at Honolua Bay.....
Also, other breaks that are dormant and sheltered from the dominant north-west swell direction will light up across the islands.......!

filthyphil's picture
filthyphil's picture
filthyphil Friday, 17 Nov 2017 at 8:34am

Too big for the eddie?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 17 Nov 2017 at 9:06am

I've heard northerly swell isn't ideal for Waimea as it gets absorbed by the Outer Log Cabin reefs first, hence reducing size. And no the swell won't be too big in any case. I'd say no change for The Eddie. Swell has been downgraded a touch as well.

Lanky Dean's picture
Lanky Dean's picture
Lanky Dean Monday, 20 Nov 2017 at 11:41am

Lumpy mc bumpy at haleiwa today. Pretty rough for some hopeful qs/ ct warriors.