The never ending mystery east swell

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)
Swellnet Analysis

Queensland surfers of a certain age will recall the famous 28 day swell of 1975 - or was it a 24 day swell? Whatever the time frame, the myth goes that a trade wind belt parked itself under New Caledonia and blew strong easterlies at the Gold Coast, and kept blowing them until Gold Coast surfers couldn't paddle anymore.

It's not quite a case of history repeating but a recent weather event did something similar.

From just before the Easter weekend right through until the weekend just gone, the East Coast saw persistent levels of easterly groundswell. From Agnes Waters down to Ulladulla and beyond set waves hovered between 3ft, with bigger 4ft bombs in the mix, spaced 10-15 minutes apart.

Already a rare event, the swell coincided with an unusually long run of light winds, creating great conditions on most days, even fending off afternoon seabreezes providing full days of glassy surf.

However, if during the course of the swell you checked the usual synoptic charts you'd have been baffled to pinpoint the swell's source. Tropical Cyclone Cook produced a short-lived NE groundswell prior to Easter yet it vanished off the charts as quickly as it came.

Likewise, the usual trade wind belt below New Caledonia, the source of the legendary 28 day swell, was quiet. Where was this mystery swell coming from?

The source of this swell was well past New Zealand, way out and south of Tahiti. Over 4,000 kilometres away - which explains the wait between sets. The swell was a product of a stationary flat-topped high working in tandem with a tropical low to generate a fetch of easterly gales aimed towards the Australian East Coast. These swells are unique in that the ocean reaches a "fully formed sea state" producing a unifom organised swell signature.

So from Monday the 10th of April through to Thursday the 20th - when the system drifted north-east and started to break down - we saw a steady supply of easterly groundswell generated for New Zealand and Australia.

The swell lit up an A-grade rivermouth across New Zealand's North Island for six days straight, arriving across the Australian East Coast Easter Saturday and persisting for over a week while ever so slowly dropping in size.

It wasn't only the longevity that was unique but its positioning too. The fetch was created just far enough north of New Zealand for southern NSW to also receive swell. If the system was any further south the North Island would create a swell shadow that only SE Qld and northern NSW would escape.

Besides the inconsistency of the swell, another downfall was its uniformity, though this comes with a caveat. If you didn't have a top quality sand bank, reef, or pointbreak at your disposal, the swell created bank to bank closeouts.

Over the last few days another strong easterly groundswell has impacted the East Coast, but this was from a separate low pressure system forming just north of New Zealand once the original broke down. So our best guess is the distant storm created swell for 10 days, which is awfully rare for the East Coast.

The next question, of course, refers to the famous 28 day swell: Was it the product of a lone system or a chain of systems?

We'll leave that to the old blokes - maybe something to debate over a beer? - as the rest of us hook into the late autumn swell.

//CRAIG BROKENSHA & STU NETTLE

Comments

mick-free's picture
mick-free's picture
mick-free Thursday, 27 Apr 2017 at 12:55pm

Mystery crowds too....where did everyone go to?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 27 Apr 2017 at 1:45pm

You know Mick, mass exodus from Sydney, love it!

curbs's picture
curbs's picture
curbs Thursday, 27 Apr 2017 at 6:06pm

mick-free,
Everyone went to Burleigh Point. On one morning there were 75 punters at The Cove. Myself and one other made a small drive south to score 3 - 4 foot surf with not another soul in the water. Plenty of bust ups from a large school of trevally. Makes you stay alert.
Long live the easterly swell.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 27 Apr 2017 at 1:04pm

I surfed on Anzac Day....so I was surfing the second system you talk about above. Nevertheless I was surprised at how peaky this swell was given it was a groundswell. Was breaking like Straddie where I surfed on the high tide. Just me and 4 other blokes too. :)

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 27 Apr 2017 at 1:48pm

Interesting, was peaky as it built here Anzac day but that was with some northerly windswell. Yesterday was ruler edge.

Pat Hollingworth's picture
Pat Hollingworth's picture
Pat Hollingworth Thursday, 27 Apr 2017 at 7:32pm

Good summary Craig.

I was fortunate to be in NZ for work in the week leading up to Easter, and I was watching the modelling a few weeks out and was thinking it was looking pretty special, and so I lugged a 6'6" and a 7'0" over with me and planned to stick around for the first few days of Easter. It was definitely worth it, and the 6'6" was not needed!

At the last minute it looked like TC Cook was gonna mess it all up, but it ended up being a bit of a media beat-up and the cyclone passed well-offshore, albeit with a lot rain. Mid-afternoon the wind swung strong offshore and in the space of a few hours there were legitimate 10-12 footers steaming through, and nobody was around because the local authorities had closed all the schools and told everyone to stay off the roads 'cause of the cyclone.

The next day I surfed that A-grade rivermouth twice at about 6-8 foot, and then the following day a booming beachie at a very chunky 6-8 foot. 24 hours later I was back in NSW and scored the local beachie absolutely firing for the next 3 days!

It was the first time I've ever surfed the same swell in two different countries and boy-oh-boy it was worth it! Craig if you wanna check out some pics ask Stu, I sent him a few ;)

Itsmemickyb's picture
Itsmemickyb's picture
Itsmemickyb Saturday, 29 Apr 2017 at 11:43am

East coast nz was epic!

PointAddict's picture
PointAddict's picture
PointAddict Wednesday, 3 May 2017 at 1:28pm

Days and days of that swell, great sessions on a reef near The Gong.