Where did you surf today?

lom's picture
lom started the topic in Wednesday, 23 Feb 2011 at 11:22am

A Realsurf staple-( sorry Priddes for the plagarism)
No surf today but off to Vicco tomorrow for the weekend so heres hoping!

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Tuesday, 5 Sep 2017 at 5:18pm

No one gives a fuck , Indo.

All the action is over at the whinge thread.

You can only dance to what the band is playing. Maybe we're the only crew on here that go to the beach ?

Maybe Caml was right all along ?

Speaking of ....any waves today Indo ?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 commented Tuesday, 5 Sep 2017 at 5:24pm

I concur with the assessment Blowin.

I was on the rocks in the dark as a big golden moon just off the full was setting in the hills.
Last time I fished I bagged a solid jew second cast. This time I went one better.
Before I'd even figured out how I was going to fish and keep the line out of the deep braid cut in my finger from a mis-timed leader grab on the last fish I felt that dull, heavy thud from a big jew.
Had that fish on the rocks and was back in the car sipping coffee before it even went cold.

Went home, fed the chooks and took my daughter out for a little before school surf in some very pretty babyfood.
Was home by 8 and the day already felt complete.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet commented Tuesday, 5 Sep 2017 at 5:29pm

Sounds fantastic, Blowin. Enticing. You should start selling real estate wherever you are.

That wasn't actully meant to be an insult, though I can imagine how it could be construed so.

Anyway...

I dug out an old Gordon Woods longboard this morning. Walked down the beach and had a solo session in perfect, tiny peelers, cross-stepping and getting down on my haunches and generally posing for whoever was watching. Fuck it was fun.

Long time betwen sets but, and it got me thinking about boards. Lots of things get me thinking about boards these days, but especialy sitting on boards, that really gets me thinking about boards.

Yeah...

So anyway, I figured out I've owned that Gordon Woods longboard for 27 years, which makes it the longest consecutive ownership of any board in my quiver. Yet despite that notable fact I'm simply not very attached to it. I like it. It's a great period design (1964), and it's in good nick. But I'm fairly indifferent to it as a possession. There are other boards in my quiver that I've owned for less time that illicit more emotion when I think of them.

The theory I formulated while sitting out there went like this: despite owning it for so long I haven't formed any meaningful memories around it because I don't really give a shit about cross-stepping or head dipping or hanging ten. They aren't aspirations in my surfing life. And though the board is now worth a bit I still can't work up any great attachment to it. Made me realise that attachment isn't based upon expense but experience.

Of course, Buddhists will say I shouldn't get attached to things at all.

But then I'm not a Buddhist.

And that's about where I got to before the next set hit and interrupted my train of thought.

New south swell coming late tomorrow so I'll be back on the usual equipment then.

EDIT: You oughta be selling real estate too Steve.

GuySmiley's picture
GuySmiley's picture
GuySmiley commented Tuesday, 5 Sep 2017 at 5:30pm

Didn't surf here today, ever, never ... as at 20 minutes ago.

indo-dreaming's picture
indo-dreaming's picture
indo-dreaming commented Tuesday, 5 Sep 2017 at 5:32pm

No it's dogs balls down here Blowin super cold with rain even hail and blowing strong SW heaps of swell but a wind blown mess, I'm sure there could be a fun wave in some hidy hole but nowhere near where i live.

Ada gula, ada semut!

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Tuesday, 5 Sep 2017 at 5:38pm

That's a solid day.
Ot feels like you've trumped me with that jew. I had a throw out the end of the point today . Zero interest. All the action was out wider and inshore was too clear and too still. Maybe a bit more action when that next South stirs it up a bit ?

Heaps of blackfish in the gutters.

Anyway. Now I know how the WSL judges feel . I threw out a 9 when a 12 point ride was just around the corner.

Everyone's a winner today.

Shatner'sBassoon's picture
Shatner'sBassoon's picture
Shatner'sBassoon commented Wednesday, 6 Sep 2017 at 5:20pm

Don't you know it!

Today has been utterly tremendous!

Yew!

Woke up at the crack of dawn, actually that's not my missus' name, but anyway, we had sex, as you do, then it was off to my local for a paddle.

Offshore and clean again, though it'd dropped off a fair bit. 6' maybe today. First wave, barrel, which is always a good start.

Yew!

Off to work. All-staff meeting chaired by the big Kahuna, our 'CEO', well, that's not his title, we're not that corporatised...yet. Anyway, he kinda nervously flashed up graphs, and metrics, and projects, and projections. I say nervously, maybe even desperately, as The Australian blew the lid off his 35% salary increase the other week, so I guess he was trying to justify this with the slide-show. It was utterly unconvincing and he then got grilled by a significant and varied number of staff. Me included. Tough crowd. Maybe a 9 in the 'tough crowd' stakes. Oh, how he squirmed. Tremendous.

Yew!

Then I went to a real meeting discussing our on-going EBA negotiations and the implications of terminating EBAs being seen and used as a 'business model' by others in the sector. Things are afoot. Positive things. And that is good news for all us, I daresay.

Yew!

Power-lunch with old comrade at the rubbidy. His shout.

Yew!

And it's only the arvo! Tonight, got a whisky tasting event. Which I get paid to attend and write about.

Yew!

In context, I'd give the day (so far) a 6.

Same same tomorrow surf-wise, though swell's dropping off further. A lotta nice sand lined up at certain beachies, but.

Yew!

Shatner'sBassoon's picture
Shatner'sBassoon's picture
Shatner'sBassoon commented Tuesday, 5 Sep 2017 at 11:40pm

Good whisky.

7.

Shatner'sBassoon's picture
Shatner'sBassoon's picture
Shatner'sBassoon commented Wednesday, 6 Sep 2017 at 12:28am

More sex.

7.5

Shatner'sBassoon's picture
Shatner'sBassoon's picture
Shatner'sBassoon commented Wednesday, 6 Sep 2017 at 12:42am

Yew!

Shatner'sBassoon's picture
Shatner'sBassoon's picture
Shatner'sBassoon commented Wednesday, 6 Sep 2017 at 11:06am

Rinse and repeat!

Yew!

dastasha's picture
dastasha's picture
dastasha commented Saturday, 9 Sep 2017 at 4:43pm

The bank(s) at dbah is absolute rubbish right now. Needs a good storm and reset

southey's picture
southey's picture
southey commented Saturday, 9 Sep 2017 at 7:42pm

Golden. beach

" SA's Reserve Capacity "

tonybarber's picture
tonybarber's picture
tonybarber commented Sunday, 10 Sep 2017 at 8:05am

Just as Ben predicted - Wedding Cake (off Coogee in Sydney), right direction, size right. About the only place where the swell is handled. An easy big swell.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet commented Tuesday, 12 Sep 2017 at 5:20pm

For the last four months I've read the numerous stories about this year's flu pandemic with the smugness befitting someone with an armour-plated immune system. As people went down around me, even my wife, I carried on, saying nothing, but inwardly praising my fortitude and constitution.

...till the fucken thing got me last week and I lay in a foetal position for three days shivering and aching. Knew the waves were gonna be good on Sunday so kept that thought in the back of my head as I ploughed on through marathon sleep sessions waking only to change sweat-drenched clothes at random hours of the day or night.

On Satuday arvo I figured I'd need a warm up surf, and a stretch and cold water immersion might do me some good anyway, so I necked some ice-lite medication and cruised down. The water was cold. I had no energy, and I struggled. Took a runner and lined up a floater section, got pitched out, tried to land it and twisted badly feeling a sharp pain across my right side hip flexors and abs. Gone.

Underwater in a bit of pain I was getting rolled and my head was spinning. I tried to breathe out slightly to equalise and my right ear blew out! Tore muscles and perforated my eardrum within seconds of each other.

Caught a whitewash wave in, stumbled up to the carpark, struggled out of my wetty then went home and went to bed. Slept all Sunday. Still got the flu.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 commented Tuesday, 12 Sep 2017 at 5:28pm

ha......I feel you......it fucking flattened me too.....luckily, between swells.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Tuesday, 12 Sep 2017 at 5:52pm

Thats shithouse.

VICLB's picture
VICLB's picture
VICLB commented Wednesday, 1 Nov 2017 at 12:37pm

VIC has had solid swell but crap winds(in arvo). surfed the Pines for shelter last night but swell was more inconsistent than Monday and Atlas was choppy due to sw direction. for once it was uncrowded, 2-3 footers till dark with a max crowd of 4 inc myself. prefect for testing my new fin setup on my 8 mal. : )

Triggerbros,
8.0 Innovator
5.10 Scurvy Dog

dastasha's picture
dastasha's picture
dastasha commented Friday, 3 Nov 2017 at 4:26pm

Did I mention the banks at Dbah are screwed?
Just watched two people get taken in the rip 250 metres straight past lovers, straight past VMR Point Danger 200 metres out to sea.
I got out of my car and went and tapped on the glass window and pointed.
Operator comes out with binoculars has a look and says Oh, I better call the lifeguard.

james10's picture
james10's picture
james10 commented Monday, 6 Nov 2017 at 3:39pm

I woke up to find my secret spot near Broken Head looking rather tasty & got a few good ones albeit smallish before work. I am praying for bigger 3 to 4ft surf on Thursday on my day off.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Friday, 17 Nov 2017 at 7:20pm

No waves today.

Torn and bleary from a late night / early morning run down the coast shouldering double bogies and fatigue . Double shots and sweet Mary Jane the only stalwart against the tide of traffic and the blandness of the dual carriage way.

The Sandy Island was everything that the East Coast dream entails.

Long , lonely sand bottom right points . Starlit nights , crystal clear sweet water streams beneath towering rainforest. Palms , fat bellied skinks and lakes that filter through the purest of sands.

Deep water channels brush against the tip . Food rich Currents and mangrove lined oceanic nurseries feed an over abundance of life. Sharks , turtles, bait . Birds chasing sustainance and mates from diametrically opposing points on the globe.

Pandanus and dingoes.

Seeds of the former staking their claim on the whims of wind and tide . The latter following in the footsteps of a lineage introduced Millenia ago.

The schism between the domestic and the incumbent is stark. Curious and simultaneously disinterested. Opportunistic but not enslaved.

Tides determining movement. Temporary solitude as the high eats the golden highway.

Backpackers. Tour groups . Brahminy kites and loggerheads.

Australia is calling .

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 commented Saturday, 18 Nov 2017 at 7:18am

fraser?

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Saturday, 18 Nov 2017 at 9:02am

Aye , Captain.

And what a lovely place to find.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet commented Thursday, 30 Nov 2017 at 8:19pm

Midday today I surfed a two foot righthander spiralling around a bank not far from home, yet it wasn't the waves, the weather (sunny!), or the crowds (just me!) that made the session noteworthy but the board I rode.

Underfoot was a 5'3" fat arse fish shaped by Josh Keogh and lent to me by the bloke who works downstairs. After not riding one for 15 years I've been thinking about fish lately, maybe just looking at a board across the carpark, or when someone's up and riding I'd pay a bit more attention than I otherwise would. All unconcious until it wasn't, and by then I needed to act on it.

So I borrowed this tiny fish and took it out in tiny waves. Only went out 'cos I had the board, wouldn't have bothered ordinarily, but I forgot how much fun those things can be in small surf. Long as you can get some lateral speed it's a blast.

Now I think I have to get one.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy commented Thursday, 30 Nov 2017 at 9:00pm

You reckon it would hold in the barrel, Stu?

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet commented Thursday, 30 Nov 2017 at 9:21pm

Ha ha...smartarse.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy commented Thursday, 30 Nov 2017 at 10:15pm

:)
Sounds fun anyway.
I'm lacking a fish and a middy from my quiver still.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot commented Friday, 1 Dec 2017 at 6:15am

Was it a traditional swallow tail fish outline stu?
Twinny or quad?

I’ve been snooping around online for a second hand one

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet commented Friday, 1 Dec 2017 at 6:49am

Yep, fish proper with deep, wide swallow and twin keel fins.

I'm thinking I'm gonna get a slightly toned down version of it: nose and tail pulled in ever so slightly, and maybe two inches longer.

chook's picture
chook's picture
chook commented Friday, 1 Dec 2017 at 10:30am

this has been more drawn out than a reality dating program...stu is going to buy that fish at last! congratulations! we've all known he would, known for the last two years or so.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet commented Friday, 1 Dec 2017 at 10:57am

Feeling like I'm on the Truman Show here.

GuySmiley's picture
GuySmiley's picture
GuySmiley commented Friday, 1 Dec 2017 at 11:11am

probably one of those mackies downstairs ... haha

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Saturday, 2 Dec 2017 at 12:11pm

20 knot Northerly. Cold(ish) drab green water. Small. Weak.

And I still had 30 minutes of fun.

Short but sweet.

Amazing what lowering the bar will do for your mental state.

Admittedly, If the bar gets any lower it'll be flush with the ground.

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy commented Saturday, 2 Dec 2017 at 5:43pm

Better quality waves here Blowin but worse water quality. Cold water isn't the only thing that comes up when you have an upwelling.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Saturday, 2 Dec 2017 at 6:21pm

You're kidding , right ?

Is that still going on ?

You'd think that it'd be sorted by now. I thought that shit was taken care of 30 years ago.

Shocking really.

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy commented Saturday, 2 Dec 2017 at 8:15pm

Doesn't happen often now. I will do a bit of research on it this week..

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig commented Saturday, 2 Dec 2017 at 9:49pm

What are we talking about?

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 6:24am

Sewerage

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig commented Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 7:02am

Ah.. yes, well the water was filthy out Curly yesterday arvo..

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy commented Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 10:15am

Lagoon was not running out. No stormwater drains on the beach. Sewage caught in the upwelling is my best guess but I will see what I can find out.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet commented Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 10:23am

Are you basing that on the colour of the water or somthing else?

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy commented Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 10:54am

Yellow foam bubbles floating through the line up. Yellow/green stains on the tide line. Noticeable odour. Pretty convincing trifecta for something being astray.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 12:54pm

Yellow foam bubbles floating through the line up .

( retching sound )

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig commented Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 12:56pm

Nah I'm with Blindboy, not usual green upwelling colour, was darker and as he said brown/yellow foam bubbles and high tide line marks. Also lagoon still enclosed. I actually had a slight upset stomach overnight and this morning!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben commented Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 1:15pm

I feel slight nauseous just reading the description.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin commented Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 2:22pm

I thought jellyfish were bad.

chook's picture
chook's picture
chook commented Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 3:03pm

, 4 million litres a day of untreated sewage continues to be released into the sea from cliffs between Bondi Beach and South Head at the entrance to Sydney Harbour.
http://www.smh.com.au/nsw/raw-sewage-released-near-bondi-as-decades-of-g...

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba commented Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 3:28pm

You have to be kidding,i thought they solved that problem,obviously not........spew.

simba

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy commented Sunday, 3 Dec 2017 at 3:40pm

Government has its priorities in order.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet commented Wednesday, 6 Dec 2017 at 11:39am

This week has had an autumnal vibe with swells from every available angle. I had two surfs yesterday, one in a south swell, and another at the very same spot in an ENE swell. This morning I lost a fin jumping off in the dark but couldn't bear going in to change it so forgot about cutbacks (it was the outside fin) and rode it out. Just had another surf at a reef north of home, not perfect but hugely satisfying with big, wedging drops and a head count so low that everyone was assured a hefty wave count.

Great time of year to have waves: school holidays haven't started so the beaches aren't chocked, just small groups of surfers exchanging out of season waves.

Good medicine for the craziness to come.

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